# Getting Started with Astrophotography: Canon R6 & Tracking Mount Guide ## 1. Tracking Mount Comparison (iOptron SkyGuider Pro vs Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer 2i) **Overview:** The iOptron SkyGuider Pro and Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer 2i are two popular portable tracking mounts for astrophotography. Both are considered “heavy-duty” star trackers with similar specifications – each can handle around an 11 lb (5 kg) payload (with counterweights) and are suitable for full-frame cameras with telephoto lenses ([Peter Zelinka | Which Star Tracker Should I Get?](https://www.peterzelinka.com/blog/2018/8/which-star-tracker-should-i-get#:~:text=match%20at%20L66%20The%20iOptron,frame%20cameras)). They enable long exposures by counteracting Earth’s rotation, which is ideal for capturing sharp, deep night sky images. Below is a comparison of their features, ease of use, mobile app integration, setup, suitability for wide-field work, and notable pros/cons: ### Features and Design - **Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer 2i:** A multi-function equatorial tracker with built-in **Wi-Fi** for smartphone control ([Star Adventurer 2i Pro Pack — Sky-Watcher USA](https://www.skywatcherusa.com/products/star-adventurer-pro-pack#:~:text=%2A%20Star%20Adventurer%202i%20multi,with%20dec%20bracket)). It offers sidereal (stars), solar, and lunar tracking rates and even a half-speed mode for imaging night sky with some landscape. It comes as a **Pro Pack** including a polar scope with illuminator, a declination (Dec) bracket, a counterweight kit, and an equatorial wedge (latitude base) – essentially everything needed to mount and balance a DSLR camera ([Star Adventurer 2i Pro Pack — Sky-Watcher USA](https://www.skywatcherusa.com/products/star-adventurer-pro-pack#:~:text=%2A%20Star%20Adventurer%202i%20multi,with%20dec%20bracket)) ([Star Adventurer 2i Pro Pack — Sky-Watcher USA](https://www.skywatcherusa.com/products/star-adventurer-pro-pack#:~:text=,inch%C2%A0adapter)). It runs on **two AA batteries** (good for ~24 hours) or USB power, which makes power supply flexible ([Star Adventurer 2i Pro Pack — Sky-Watcher USA](https://www.skywatcherusa.com/products/star-adventurer-pro-pack#:~:text=,USB)). The Star Adventurer 2i has a built-in **SNAP port** to control a camera’s shutter, enabling programmed sequences via the app ([Star Adventurer 2i Pro Pack — Sky-Watcher USA](https://www.skywatcherusa.com/products/star-adventurer-pro-pack#:~:text=,inch%C2%A0adapter)). Payload capacity is up to 5 kg (~11 lbs) when using the counterweight, sufficient for a camera and a heavy lens. The mount uses sturdy metal gearing and has a clutch to engage/disengage the gear for easy framing ([Star Adventurer 2i Pro Pack — Sky-Watcher USA](https://www.skywatcherusa.com/products/star-adventurer-pro-pack#:~:text=%2A%20Star%20Adventurer%202i%20multi,with%20dec%20bracket)). - **iOptron SkyGuider Pro:** A compact equatorial tracker known for its precision and integrated features. It has a **built-in rechargeable battery** (good for ~20+ hours per charge) and doesn’t require external batteries ([SkyGuider^TM Pro Camera Mount Full Package](https://www.ioptron.com/product-p/3550.htm#:~:text=The%20redesigned%20SkyGuiderr,Star%20position%20for%20the%20polar)). The SkyGuider Pro includes an illuminated **polar scope** with adjustable brightness for aligning to Polaris ([SkyGuider^TM Pro Camera Mount Full Package](https://www.ioptron.com/product-p/3550.htm#:~:text=The%20redesigned%20SkyGuiderr,Star%20position%20for%20the%20polar)). It also features an **ST-4 autoguiding port** and a camera **trigger port** for advanced control ([SkyGuider^TM Pro Camera Mount Full Package](https://www.ioptron.com/product-p/3550.htm#:~:text=The%20redesigned%20SkyGuiderr,rate%2C%20change%20the%20mount%20settings)). It offers four tracking rates: 1× sidereal (stars), 1/2× (for nightscapes combining stars and foreground), solar, and lunar, plus a quick slew mode for re-framing ([SkyGuider^TM Pro Camera Mount Full Package](https://www.ioptron.com/product-p/3550.htm#:~:text=The%20SkyGuider,without%20disrupting%20the%20cameras%20position)). The SkyGuider Pro comes with a Dec bracket, counterweight and rod, and a Vixen-style dovetail saddle in the “full package,” similar to the SA 2i’s kit ([SkyGuider^TM Pro Camera Mount Full Package](https://www.ioptron.com/product-p/3550.htm#:~:text=source%2C%20ST,and%20control%20the%20camera%20trigger)) ([SkyGuider^TM Pro Camera Mount Full Package](https://www.ioptron.com/product-p/3550.htm#:~:text=SkyGuider,with%201%2F4%E2%80%9D%20or%203%2F8%E2%80%9D%20threads)). Notably, iOptron improved the alt-azimuth **base** on newer units – it has fine adjustment knobs, degree markings, and a built-in bubble level, making polar alignment adjustments smoother ([SkyGuider^TM Pro Camera Mount Full Package](https://www.ioptron.com/product-p/3550.htm#:~:text=We%20have%20made%20big%20improvements,with%201%2F4%E2%80%9D%20or%203%2F8%E2%80%9D%20threads)). Payload capacity is about 5 kg (11 lbs) with counterweight, comparable to the Star Adventurer. It does **not have built-in Wi-Fi** control, relying on onboard switches or an optional hand controller for changing settings ([SkyGuider^TM Pro Camera Mount Full Package](https://www.ioptron.com/product-p/3550.htm#:~:text=source%2C%20ST,and%20control%20the%20camera%20trigger)). ### Ease of Use and Setup - **Star Adventurer 2i:** Designed to be user-friendly. The inclusion of an equatorial wedge (for altitude adjustment) and fine azimuth adjustment screws on the base simplifies polar alignment. The mount’s built-in polar scope comes pre-aligned and has an LED illuminator, so you can easily see the Polaris reticle at night ([Star Adventurer 2i Pro Pack — Sky-Watcher USA](https://www.skywatcherusa.com/products/star-adventurer-pro-pack#:~:text=included%20%2A%20Built,with%20dec%20bracket)). The 2i’s **Wi-Fi-based app (Star Adventurer Console)** provides a polar alignment assistant and lets you manually slew the mount for framing ([[PDF] Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer 2i - INSTRUCTION MANUAL](https://inter-static.skywatcher.com/downloads/staradventurer2i_upgradekit_installation.pdf#:~:text=%5BPDF%5D%20Sky,lets%20you%20alter%20Settings%2C)) ([Star Adventurer Console - Apps on Google Play](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.skywatcher.samini&hl=en_US#:~:text=Star%20Adventurer%20Console%20,this%20app%20to%20program)). This means you can use your phone to help position Polaris in the reticle correctly and even adjust settings without touching the mount. Overall, attaching a camera (usually via a ball-head on the Dec bracket), balancing it with the counterweight, and selecting the tracking mode is straightforward. Beginners report that the Star Adventurer is easy to set up in the field once you practice polar aligning a few times. Its clutch mechanism allows you to pan/tilt the camera freely when composing, then re-engage for tracking. One consideration: using AA batteries means you should carry spares or use a USB power bank for long nights. Swapping batteries can require realigning if done incautiously, so many prefer plugging into USB for uninterrupted power. - **iOptron SkyGuider Pro:** Also relatively easy to use, but all adjustments are manual (no smartphone control for alignment). It has a robust altitude base with fine controls, which makes polar alignment precise – the improved base has a **precision azimuth adjust knob and degree marks** for altitude ([SkyGuider^TM Pro Camera Mount Full Package](https://www.ioptron.com/product-p/3550.htm#:~:text=We%20have%20made%20big%20improvements,with%201%2F4%E2%80%9D%20or%203%2F8%E2%80%9D%20threads)). To set up, you mount it on a sturdy tripod, level it (bubble level provided), and align the polar scope with Polaris. You can use iOptron’s **iOS polar alignment app** which tells you where to place Polaris on the reticle for your time/location ([SkyGuider^TM Pro Camera Mount Full Package](https://www.ioptron.com/product-p/3550.htm#:~:text=source%2C%20ST,and%20control%20the%20camera%20trigger)), aiding the alignment process. Once aligned, attach the Dec bracket, your camera and lens, and balance with the counterweight (the kit includes a small weight that slides on the shaft). The SkyGuider Pro has a clutch as well; you can unlock RA (right ascension) to manually rotate to frame your shot, then re-lock for tracking. Switching tracking rates or engaging the quick-slew mode is done via a dial or button on the unit. Because it lacks a dedicated app, the SkyGuider relies on its onboard LED indicators and switches for status (e.g., an LED flashes for different speeds). This analog approach is still simple, though not as feature-rich as the Star Adventurer’s app. The upside is that the SkyGuider’s internal battery means fewer cables or external devices during setup – just turn it on and go. In terms of learning curve, both mounts require *practice* in polar alignment and balancing, but neither is overly complex for a beginner. The Star Adventurer’s app-based tools might give it a slight edge for novice-friendly alignment. Meanwhile, the SkyGuider Pro’s sturdy build and fine controls can make achieving a precise alignment a “joy” once you get used to it ([SkyGuider^TM Pro Camera Mount Full Package](https://www.ioptron.com/product-p/3550.htm#:~:text=source%2C%20ST,and%20control%20the%20camera%20trigger)). ### Mobile App Compatibility - **Star Adventurer 2i:** This mount shines in terms of app integration. It creates a Wi-Fi hotspot that you connect to with your phone/tablet. Using the **Star Adventurer Console** app (available for iOS/Android), you can control many functions. The app assists with polar alignment by showing Polaris’ position, and it lets you program astrophotography sequences (interval shooting) via the SNAP port ([Star Adventurer 2i Pro Pack — Sky-Watcher USA](https://www.skywatcherusa.com/products/star-adventurer-pro-pack#:~:text=included%20%2A%20Built,with%20dec%20bracket)) ([Star Adventurer 2i Pro Pack — Sky-Watcher USA](https://www.skywatcherusa.com/products/star-adventurer-pro-pack#:~:text=photography,lapse%20videos%20with%20your%20DSLR)). For example, you can set the mount to take a series of long exposures automatically – the app has preprogrammed settings for different scenarios (like timelapse or long exposures for night sky) ([Star Adventurer 2i Pro Pack — Sky-Watcher USA](https://www.skywatcherusa.com/products/star-adventurer-pro-pack#:~:text=photography,lapse%20videos%20with%20your%20DSLR)). You can also manually slew the mount in RA via the app’s “Manual Control” to fine-tune framing ([[PDF] Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer 2i - INSTRUCTION MANUAL](https://inter-static.skywatcher.com/downloads/staradventurer2i_upgradekit_installation.pdf#:~:text=%5BPDF%5D%20Sky,lets%20you%20alter%20Settings%2C)). Essentially, the app adds convenience: you don’t have to touch the mount or camera as much once everything is running, reducing the chance of bumping anything. This wireless control is a **notable advantage** of the 2i. Keep in mind the app doesn’t provide full GoTo functionality (it can’t automatically find objects by itself, since the mount has no motors in DEC or star database), but it streamlines the tracking and imaging workflow. - **iOptron SkyGuider Pro:** The SkyGuider Pro does **not have a built-in smartphone app** for control. It is a more “traditional” tracker – you set the tracking speed and use an intervalometer (or your camera’s internal timer) to handle the exposures. However, iOptron offers a mobile app called **iOptron Polar Scope** (for iOS/Android) which is used solely to aid polar alignment by showing where Polaris should be positioned in the reticle ([SkyGuider^TM Pro Camera Mount Full Package](https://www.ioptron.com/product-p/3550.htm#:~:text=source%2C%20ST,and%20control%20the%20camera%20trigger)). This is essentially a digital version of the printed reticle charts – a helpful tool but not a direct control interface for the mount. There is also an optional hand controller (iOptron 8408) that can be purchased; it can display polar alignment info, allow small electronic slewing adjustments, and control a DSLR shutter through the port ([SkyGuider^TM Pro Camera Mount Full Package](https://www.ioptron.com/product-p/3550.htm#:~:text=source%2C%20ST,and%20control%20the%20camera%20trigger)). Most users, however, operate the SkyGuider Pro simply by the onboard dial (to select tracking rate) and using an external intervalometer for the camera. In summary, **mobile app integration is a big differentiator**: the Star Adventurer 2i’s app-based workflow offers more convenience and “smart” features (like timelapse sequences and wireless control), whereas the SkyGuider Pro keeps things basic but reliable (physical controls and optional tools). Depending on your style, you might prefer the hands-on simplicity of the iOptron or the high-tech control of the Sky-Watcher. ### Suitability for Wide-Field Astrophotography Both mounts are excellent for wide-field astrophotography. In fact, if you are primarily doing wide-field shots (e.g. using a 14mm, 24mm, or 50mm lens), these trackers are **more than capable** – they are built to handle even moderate telephoto lenses. With a proper polar alignment, you can expect to take multi-minute exposures at wide angles with pinpoint stars. For example, a 30-second untracked exposure at 16mm might show slight star elongation, but on either tracker you could shoot 2-3 minute exposures at 16mm with no trails, limited only by sky brightness or your camera’s noise. Wide-field imaging is forgiving, and these mounts will easily track the Milky Way’s stars while you use lower ISOs or smaller apertures to maximize image quality. Because both have similar tracking accuracy (they use precision worm gears), there isn’t a huge difference in performance at wide angles. However, some astrophotographers find that out-of-the-box, the SkyGuider Pro’s tracking is slightly more consistent (periodic error might be marginally lower) – **it’s praised for good tracking performance** in its class ([SkyWatcher Star Adventurer, Or iOptron SkyGuider, And Why?](https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/748731-skywatcher-star-adventurer-or-ioptron-skyguider-and-why/#:~:text=Why%3F%20www,Features)). The Star Adventurer’s accuracy is also very good, and many stunning wide-field images have been made with it. For typical wide shots (focal lengths 14–50mm), any residual tracking error is negligible. One consideration for wide-field nightscapes is including foreground terrain (like mountains or trees). Both mounts have a 0.5× speed mode (on SkyGuider Pro, this is selectable; on Star Adventurer, it’s a built-in “half sidereal rate”) that lets you track the sky at half rate so that the ground blurs only half as much. This is a compromise mode for single exposures of landscape + sky. However, most users shooting landscapes will do one exposure with tracking (for the sharp sky) and one with the tracker off (for a sharp foreground), then blend them. In terms of pure wide-field astro (just the sky), these mounts are perhaps even **overkill for short lenses** – you could use smaller trackers for that. But the benefit is that they give you room to grow: if you want to use a 50mm, 135mm, or even a 200mm lens for larger deep-sky objects, both mounts can handle it (with careful balancing). They are commonly recommended as top choices for beginners precisely because of this wide-field strength and versatility ([ Peter Zelinka | Which Star Tracker Should I Get? ](https://www.peterzelinka.com/blog/2018/8/which-star-tracker-should-i-get#:~:text=match%20at%20L66%20The%20iOptron,frame%20cameras)). In short, for Milky Way panoramas, constellation shots, and other wide-field projects, the SkyGuider Pro and Star Adventurer 2i are equally well-suited and will make the process much easier compared to a fixed tripod. ### Pros and Cons **Star Adventurer 2i – Pros:** - **Smartphone App Control:** Built-in Wi-Fi and app provides easy alignment assistance and automated exposure control ([Star Adventurer 2i Pro Pack — Sky-Watcher USA](https://www.skywatcherusa.com/products/star-adventurer-pro-pack#:~:text=The%20Sky,lapse%20videos%20with%20your%20DSLR)). Great for convenience and timelapse programming. - **Complete Kit:** Comes with polar scope (illuminated), Dec bracket, counterweight, and wedge – all necessary hardware included ([Star Adventurer 2i Pro Pack — Sky-Watcher USA](https://www.skywatcherusa.com/products/star-adventurer-pro-pack#:~:text=%2A%20Star%20Adventurer%202i%20multi,with%20dec%20bracket)). No need to buy extras for basic use. - **Robust Build:** All-metal gears and solid construction; reliable tracking for long exposures. Handles full-frame DSLR/mirrorless + lens easily ([Star Adventurer 2i Pro Pack — Sky-Watcher USA](https://www.skywatcherusa.com/products/star-adventurer-pro-pack#:~:text=%2A%20Star%20Adventurer%202i%20multi,with%20dec%20bracket)). - **Multiple Tracking Modes:** Sidereal, lunar, solar, and half-rate modes cover various scenarios. Can even do basic panorama or timelapse motion. - **Community & Support:** Widely used by astrophotographers, so there are many tutorials, accessories, and community tips available for this mount. **Star Adventurer 2i – Cons:** - **Power via AA Batteries:** Uses 4× AA batteries (in earlier Star Adventurer it was 4, the 2i uses 2×AA) which can drain during long sessions ([Star Adventurer 2i Pro Pack — Sky-Watcher USA](https://www.skywatcherusa.com/products/star-adventurer-pro-pack#:~:text=,USB)). Keeping spares or using a USB power bank is necessary – slightly less convenient than a built-in rechargeable battery. - **No Autoguiding Port:** Lacks an ST-4 port for autoguider. This means you cannot easily add an auto-guiding setup to improve tracking for very long focal lengths. (For wide-field this isn’t a big issue.) - **Limited Payload for Heavier Scopes:** 11 lb rating is good for camera+lens, but if you ever try a small telescope, you’re at the limit. The mount is not a GoTo telescope mount – purely manual aiming. - **App Dependence for Some Features:** While the mount can track without the app, certain features (like programming exposure sequences) require using the phone. If the app disconnects or phone dies, you lose that functionality (the tracker still tracks at sidereal by default, though). Some users have reported the app UI isn’t very polished, though it’s functional. - **Polar Scope Ergonomics:** You have to crouch to look through the polar scope for alignment (true of most trackers). No electronic polar camera built-in (though the app helps by showing where to put Polaris). This is a minor inconvenience, common to both mounts. **iOptron SkyGuider Pro – Pros:** - **Integrated Power:** Internal rechargeable battery means no external batteries or cables ([SkyGuider^TM Pro Camera Mount Full Package](https://www.ioptron.com/product-p/3550.htm#:~:text=The%20redesigned%20SkyGuiderr,Star%20position%20for%20the%20polar)). Just charge it before a trip and it will run all night (up to ~20 hours). You can also charge it via USB while using it if needed. - **Precision and Tracking Performance:** Excellent tracking accuracy out-of-the-box; many users report very good results even at 200mm+ (with proper alignment). The mount has a reputation for slightly lower periodic error, aiding longer unguided exposures. - **ST-4 Autoguider Port:** Allows connection of an autoguider if you want to do guided astrophotography ([SkyGuider^TM Pro Camera Mount Full Package](https://www.ioptron.com/product-p/3550.htm#:~:text=The%20redesigned%20SkyGuiderr,rate%2C%20change%20the%20mount%20settings)). This can significantly improve tracking for telephoto or deep-sky imaging by making small corrections. It future-proofs the mount for more advanced use. - **Solid Alt-Az Base:** The improved base with fine adjustment knobs makes polar alignment easier and more stable ([SkyGuider^TM Pro Camera Mount Full Package](https://www.ioptron.com/product-p/3550.htm#:~:text=We%20have%20made%20big%20improvements,with%201%2F4%E2%80%9D%20or%203%2F8%E2%80%9D%20threads)). It’s often praised as sturdier than the stock Sky-Watcher wedge. A stable alignment means better tracking. - **Quick Slew Mode:** The SkyGuider has a button for 12× speed slewing in RA ([SkyGuider^TM Pro Camera Mount Full Package](https://www.ioptron.com/product-p/3550.htm#:~:text=The%20SkyGuider,without%20disrupting%20the%20cameras%20position)), which is handy for reframing the composition without unlocking the clutch – a small time-saver when centering targets. - **Flexible Mounting:** The head can attach on any standard tripod (1/4” or 3/8” threads) with or without its base, giving some mounting flexibility ([SkyGuider^TM Pro Camera Mount Full Package](https://www.ioptron.com/product-p/3550.htm#:~:text=We%20have%20made%20big%20improvements,with%201%2F4%E2%80%9D%20or%203%2F8%E2%80%9D%20threads)). The Dec bracket has a dovetail slot so you can even mount small telescopes directly. **iOptron SkyGuider Pro – Cons:** - **No Native App Control:** Absent Wi-Fi or dedicated app (aside from the polar alignment aid) means all control is manual. No built-in intervalometer functions – you’ll need to use your camera’s intervalometer or an external one. Some users may miss the convenience of wireless adjustments that the SA 2i offers. - **Reliance on Visual Polar Align:** You must use the polar scope for alignment (unless you upgraded to the separate iPolar version). In dark skies this is fine, but under light pollution sometimes Polaris is harder to see. The polar scope reticle, while illuminated, requires careful calibration. There’s no electronic alignment built-in, so aligning might take a bit longer initially (though the app helps with reticle positioning). - **Balancing Can Be Fiddly:** With the counterweight setup, achieving perfect balance on both RA and Dec axes takes a bit of practice (same on the Star Adventurer). The SkyGuider’s Dec bracket has no fine adjustment for balance (you slide the camera or counterweight), which can be a little finicky with heavy lenses. - **Indicator Lights Only:** Status is shown via LEDs (for example, different blink patterns for tracking rates). This can be less intuitive than a screen or app readout. You’ll need to remember what each pattern means from the manual. Also, the LEDs are quite bright by default; some people tape over them to preserve night vision. - **Heavier Unit:** The SkyGuider Pro head with its metal housing and internal battery is slightly heavier (about 3.2 lbs / 1.45 kg with Dec bracket attached) than the Star Adventurer head (~2.2 lbs / 1 kg without counterweight). This is still portable, but when backpacking, every pound counts. The difference is not huge, but notable if ultra-light travel is a concern. In summary, **both the Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer 2i and iOptron SkyGuider Pro are excellent beginner-friendly tracking mounts** with minor differences. The Star Adventurer 2i emphasizes *ease of use* (with app control and a ready-to-go kit), making it very convenient for wide-field nightscapes ([Star Adventurer 2i Pro Pack — Sky-Watcher USA](https://www.skywatcherusa.com/products/star-adventurer-pro-pack#:~:text=The%20Sky,lapse%20videos%20with%20your%20DSLR)). The SkyGuider Pro focuses on *performance and integration* (with its internal battery and guiding port) ([SkyGuider^TM Pro Camera Mount Full Package](https://www.ioptron.com/product-p/3550.htm#:~:text=The%20redesigned%20SkyGuiderr,rate%2C%20change%20the%20mount%20settings)), appealing to those who might push the tracker’s capabilities further. For wide-field astrophotography, either will serve you very well. Your choice may boil down to whether you value the 2i’s wireless app features or the SkyGuider’s self-contained, plug-and-play design. Many astrophotographers have successfully used **either tracker for Milky Way photography and even moderate deep-sky imaging**, so you can’t go too wrong with either ([ Peter Zelinka | Which Star Tracker Should I Get? ](https://www.peterzelinka.com/blog/2018/8/which-star-tracker-should-i-get#:~:text=match%20at%20L66%20The%20iOptron,frame%20cameras)). ## 2. Practice Exercises in Redmond, WA (Milky Way & Other Targets) Astrophotography is best learned by doing. Here are step-by-step **practice exercises** you can try in Redmond, WA, to build your skills in capturing and stacking images. Redmond’s suburban environment has significant light pollution (approximately Bortle class 6-7 sky), which presents challenges but also a good training ground – if you can get results here, you’ll excel under darker skies. These exercises will cover: (A) wide-field Milky Way photography and (B) imaging a brighter deep-sky object (the Orion Nebula) with a telephoto lens. Each includes recommended camera settings, exposure times, ISO, and tips to mitigate light pollution. ### A. Capturing the Milky Way in a Light-Polluted Sky *Goal:* Photograph the Milky Way’s structure despite urban light pollution, by taking multiple exposures and stacking them to improve detail and reduce noise. **Step 1 – Plan the Shoot:** Even in Redmond’s light-polluted skies, you can capture the Milky Way’s brighter parts. Plan for a night with **clear weather** (no clouds) and ideally **no Moon** or a late-setting Moon. Around a **New Moon** is best, since any moonlight will further wash out the sky ([Tips For Astrophotography | How To Take Better Pictures of The Night Sky | Lensbaby](https://lensbaby.com/blogs/creative-photography/astro-photography?srsltid=AfmBOor5FsfFL1kLe7iU8AOU4qteCy6dKq_kqOdJrjQ0_9X2T4oE9P1p#:~:text=sky%20location%2C%20but%20a%20dark,I%20love%20catching%20a)). In Redmond, the Milky Way’s core (the brightest center region) is visible roughly late spring through summer. If it’s not summer, you can still photograph the winter Milky Way (which is dimmer) or star fields along the galactic plane – but the core is the most dramatic. Use a mobile app (like *SkySafari*, *Sky Guide*, or *PhotoPills*) to determine what time the Milky Way will be above the horizon and where. For example, in mid-summer the core appears in the southeast around midnight. **Choose a location** in Redmond that’s as dark as possible: a park or open space away from direct street lights. If you can, go to the east side of town or a local hill where Seattle’s skyglow might be slightly less intense. Make sure you have permission if it’s a park after hours. A location like Snoqualmie Point or Tiger Mountain (a short drive from Redmond) will have darker skies, but for practice even your backyard can work. Just be aware that in heavy light pollution, the Milky Way will be *almost invisible to your eyes* – planning and patience are key. **Step 2 – Set Up Your Gear:** Go out at least 30–60 minutes after sunset (to ensure the sky is fully dark). Set up your **tripod** on stable ground and mount the tracking head (SkyGuider Pro or Star Adventurer 2i) securely. Level the mount using the built-in bubble level. Attach your **Canon R6** with a **wide-angle lens** (ideally something in the 14mm to 24mm range; if you only have a 24-105 or similar, use the widest end). A fast lens (with a low f-number like f/2.8 or f/1.8) is ideal to collect more light. Mount the camera + lens to the tracker (typically via a ballhead on the tracker’s Dec bracket). Make sure everything is tightened. Now **polar align the tracker**: locate Polaris (the North Star) in the sky (use a smartphone app or compass if needed – in Redmond, Polaris will be in the northern sky ~47° above the horizon, which is your latitude). Look through the mount’s polar scope and center Polaris in the reticle according to your mount’s instructions/app. Take your time to get a good alignment; this will ensure accurate tracking. On the Star Adventurer 2i, you can use the phone app’s polar alignment tool for reference ([[PDF] Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer 2i - INSTRUCTION MANUAL](https://inter-static.skywatcher.com/downloads/staradventurer2i_upgradekit_installation.pdf#:~:text=%5BPDF%5D%20Sky,lets%20you%20alter%20Settings%2C)); on the SkyGuider, use the reticle pattern or an app like iOptron Polar Scope ([SkyGuider^TM Pro Camera Mount Full Package](https://www.ioptron.com/product-p/3550.htm#:~:text=source%2C%20ST,and%20control%20the%20camera%20trigger)). Once aligned, **lock the alt-az knobs** so the mount doesn’t shift. **Step 3 – Compose the Shot:** Unlock the camera’s ballhead and point your camera toward the Milky Way region. If the Milky Way core is up, aim toward the south/southeast where it’s located. You might not see much on the camera screen at first due to light pollution. Do a quick high-ISO test shot (say, 5 seconds at ISO 12800) to see if you can spot bright stars or the Milky Way band – this can help frame your composition. Adjust the framing as desired (maybe include some horizon or silhouettes of trees/buildings for context, or just focus on the sky). Once framed, lock your ballhead so the camera won’t move. **Step 4 – Focus the Lens:** Achieving focus at night is crucial. Using the Canon R6’s **Live View**, activate the 10× magnification assist and find a bright star (or planet) in the field or even a distant light on the horizon. Turn **manual focus** on your lens and adjust until the star is as small and sharp as possible. The R6’s electronic viewfinder and rear screen are very sensitive; use a high ISO in live view to pick up stars (the R6’s sensor and display can show many stars in real-time at high ISO, which is a big advantage). You can also use the R6’s focus *peaking* if available, but magnifying is usually more precise. Once the star is pinpoint and not a blob, your focus is set to infinity. Be sure to tape the focus ring or be careful not to touch it afterward. (On a wide lens at f/2.8, depth of field will cover infinity once properly set.) **Step 5 – Dial in Exposure Settings:** Now set your camera to **Manual (M) mode**. Use **RAW format** (enable RAW image quality – this is important to retain maximum data for post-processing) ([How I Photograph the Milky Way in the Light-Polluted Skies of Singapore | PetaPixel](https://petapixel.com/2014/07/29/photograph-milky-way-light-polluted-skies-singapore/#:~:text=Switch%20to%20Bulb%20mode%20on,to%20shoot%20in%20RAW%20format)). A good starting point for a light-polluted area with a tracker is: **Shutter = 60 seconds**, **Aperture = f/2.8** (or widest your lens allows), **ISO = 800**. Why these? In dark skies without a tracker, one might do 20-30 seconds at ISO 3200 f/2.8 ([ Astrophotography Tips from Phil Hart | Canon Australia ](https://www.canon.com.au/get-inspired/astrophotography-tips-phil-hart#:~:text=Recommended%20Camera%20Settings%20for%20Night,Sky%20Photography)), but since you have a tracker, you can go longer and use a lower ISO for better quality. However, in the city, very long exposures will turn the sky bright orange/gray from light pollution. **60s at ISO 800** is often a reasonable compromise: long enough to gather a lot of signal, but not so long that the sky completely washes out. Check your histogram after a 60s test shot – it will likely be shifted right due to skyglow. Ideally, the histogram peak (sky background) might be around the middle or a bit less. If it’s *too far right* (meaning the image looks very bright), you have a few options: lower the ISO (to 400) or shorten the exposure (to 30s). Conversely, if the image is very dark (histogram far left and you barely see anything), you can raise ISO to 1600 or use 90s exposure. **Tip:** In heavy light pollution, some astrophotographers use the *“Expose to the Right (ETTR)”* technique – intentionally exposing so that the histogram is just toward the right side without clipping, then darkening in post to reveal the stars ([How I Photograph the Milky Way in the Light-Polluted Skies of Singapore | PetaPixel](https://petapixel.com/2014/07/29/photograph-milky-way-light-polluted-skies-singapore/#:~:text=Step%203)). This maximizes the data captured. For example, you might find 30s at ISO 1600 yields an histogram toward the right; that could be fine as long as you don’t clip the highlights (stars). For now, aim for a balance. Also, **disable Long Exposure Noise Reduction** in the R6 settings (if it’s on) – since we’ll be stacking, in-camera noise reduction (which takes a dark frame after each shot) will just slow us down ([ Astrophotography Tips from Phil Hart | Canon Australia ](https://www.canon.com.au/get-inspired/astrophotography-tips-phil-hart#:~:text=Shutter%20Speed%3A%20Use%20a%20shutter,reduction%20in%20the%20%E2%80%98Shooting%20Menu%E2%80%99)). Ensure **IBIS is off** as well (on a tripod, the R6’s IBIS can be turned off to prevent any sensor micro-movements). Set White Balance to a fixed value like **Daylight (5200K)** or **Auto** – in RAW this isn’t critical since you can adjust later ([ Astrophotography Tips from Phil Hart | Canon Australia ](https://www.canon.com.au/get-inspired/astrophotography-tips-phil-hart#:~:text=Shutter%20Speed%3A%20Use%20a%20shutter,reduction%20in%20the%20%E2%80%98Shooting%20Menu%E2%80%99)). Daylight WB is a common choice for astrophotos to have a neutral starting point ([Proper White Balance for AP: Astrophotography Talk Forum Forum](https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3987647#:~:text=Proper%20White%20Balance%20for%20AP%3A,people%20with%20normal%20vision%20see)). Finally, if using the SkyWatcher’s SNAP port or app, connect the cable to your R6 so the mount can control the shutter; otherwise, prepare your **intervalometer** or the R6’s built-in Interval Timer. **Step 6 – Take a Sequence of Exposures:** Start the tracker’s motor (set it to sidereal 1×). Now begin shooting your series of images. If using the Star Adventurer app, program an exposure sequence (e.g., 30 exposures x 60 seconds each, with 1-second interval). If using the R6’s internal intervalometer: note that it can handle regular exposures up to 30s easily, but it won’t automatically do bulb exposures beyond 30s ([R6 interval timer issue.: Canon EOS R Talk Forum](https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4591711#:~:text=R6%20interval%20timer%20issue,Julie)). For 60s exposures, you’ll either need an external intervalometer or you can manually press the shutter for each (not ideal) or use the R6’s **Bulb Timer** feature. The R6 does allow setting a bulb exposure duration in the menu ([Product Manual : EOS R6 : B: Long (Bulb) Exposures - Canon](https://cam.start.canon/en/C004/manual/html/UG-02_ShootingMode_0090.html#:~:text=Product%20Manual%20%3A%20EOS%20R6,button%20during%20bulb%20exposures%2C)) – you could set 60s bulb and then use the intervalometer for a series. Alternatively, reduce exposure to 30s and let the internal timer do all the work (e.g., 30s, ISO1600 might yield similar results). Decide what method is simplest for you. Once set, shoot at least **10-20 exposures** of the Milky Way back-to-back. More is better – stacking, as we’ll do, benefits from having many frames to improve signal-to-noise ratio ([Astrophotography Image Stacking Software | Which One is Best?](https://astrobackyard.com/astrophotography-image-stacking-software/#:~:text=,image%20with%20editing%20software%20like)). While the sequence is running, periodically check that the tracker is still aligned (Polaris is still roughly correct in polar scope) and that there are no clouds. If you notice the camera framing drifting off (it shouldn’t if everything is tight and aligned), pause and re-align. After your light frames, it’s a good idea to take a few **“dark frames”**: cover the lens (or put the lens cap on) and shoot 5-10 frames with the same settings (60s, ISO800 etc). These dark frames capture sensor noise (hot pixels, amp glow) which can later be subtracted from your images during stacking to reduce noise artifacts. Since the R6 may exhibit a slight *amp glow* (a magenta glow on edges in long exposures) ([Testing the Canon R6 for Astrophotography – The Amazing Sky](https://amazingsky.net/2021/09/23/testing-the-canon-r6-for-astrophotography/#:~:text=Image%20Quality%20Flaw)), dark frames are very useful to calibrate that out. You can take darks at the end of your session (the sensor temperature should be similar to your light frames for best results). **Step 7 – Stack and Process:** Once you have your set of images, the next step (to be done back indoors) is stacking them to overcome the light pollution and noise. Using software like **Sequator** (free for Windows) or **DeepSkyStacker**, you will align and combine the exposures. For a Milky Way shot with some stationary foreground, Sequator is very handy – it can mask the foreground and align only the stars, yielding a combined image where the stars are strengthened and noise averaged out ([Astrophotography Image Stacking Software | Which One is Best?](https://astrobackyard.com/astrophotography-image-stacking-software/#:~:text=Sequator%20is%20easy%20to%20use,Milky%20Way%20Photography%20and%20Nightscapes)). Load your light frames (and dark frames if you took them) into the stacking software and run the stacking process (we’ll detail software and processing in Section 4). The result will be a single image that you can then edit to bring out the Milky Way. Given Redmond’s bright sky, expect that the raw stacked image will still look somewhat grey/orange. You’ll need to do some post-processing: adjust **levels/curves** to darken the sky background and boost the contrast of the Milky Way ([Astrophotography Image Processing in Photoshop | Easy to Follow (Deep Sky)](https://astrobackyard.com/tutorials/astrophotography-tutorial-1/#:~:text=Step%203%3A%20Levels%20Adjustment)), and possibly use a **gradient removal** tool to eliminate residual light pollution gradients. Increase color saturation to make the Milky Way’s star clouds and any nebulas more visible. Don’t worry if one exposure didn’t show much – stacking and stretching will reveal far more than a single shot. **Light Pollution Tips:** Capturing the Milky Way in a Bortle 7 area is challenging, so keep these tips in mind: - *Use a Light Pollution Filter (optional):* If you have access to a clip-in or lens filter (like a **neutral night filter** that cuts common city light wavelengths), it can improve contrast. For example, filters by Optolong or Hoya reduce the orange glow. It’s not required, but can help if you have one. - *Histogram Monitoring:* Aim for an exposure where the sky background peak is not too bright. In heavy light pollution, shorter exposures with more stacks can be better than one long blown-out exposure. For instance, you might do 30s at ISO1600 and stack many frames. This way each frame isn’t over-exposed, and stacking will still improve the signal. Experiment to find the sweet spot. - *Take MANY exposures:* The more frames you stack, the more the random noise and pollution effects average out ([Astrophotography Image Stacking Software | Which One is Best?](https://astrobackyard.com/astrophotography-image-stacking-software/#:~:text=,image%20with%20editing%20software%20like)). In a city, stacking “hours and hours” of data can compensate for a washed-out sky ([Astrophotography Image Processing in Photoshop | Easy to Follow (Deep Sky)](https://astrobackyard.com/tutorials/astrophotography-tutorial-1/#:~:text=Those%20of%20us%20who%20shoot,role%20in%20correcting%20the%20data)). Practically, try to get at least 30 minutes of total exposure time on the Milky Way (e.g., 30 × 60s). Dedicated urban astrophotographers might even accumulate several hours over multiple nights to get a cleaner result ([Astrophotography Image Processing in Photoshop | Easy to Follow (Deep Sky)](https://astrobackyard.com/tutorials/astrophotography-tutorial-1/#:~:text=Those%20of%20us%20who%20shoot,role%20in%20correcting%20the%20data)). - *Dither if Possible:* If your tracker’s app or your intervalometer can slightly shift the frame between shots (or you manually reposition a tiny bit a couple of times), it’s called dithering. This can help reduce fixed-pattern noise when stacking because each frame’s noise pattern shifts. It’s a nice-to-have technique especially in light-polluted conditions where sensor noise can be more pronounced. - *Use Calibration Frames:* We mentioned dark frames — use them in stacking to subtract thermal noise. Also consider taking **flat frames** the next morning (cover the lens with a white T-shirt and shoot at the sky or a tablet screen) to correct vignetting. Flats help remove any uneven brightness or dust spots. Flats are a bit advanced, but they can improve the final image by removing the lens vignetting, which in a bright sky can be noticeable. - *Accept Limitations & Plan for Dark Sites:* Understand that no matter what, an image taken in Redmond will not be as crisp or contrasty as one taken under truly dark skies. You’ll likely get a milky way image that shows the general shape and maybe the brighter nebulae (like the Summer Triangle region, North America Nebula faintly, etc.), but it will lack the fine detail and contrast. That’s okay – the goal is to practice the techniques. When you later shoot in Moab (much darker skies), the same techniques will yield spectacular results by comparison. Consider these Redmond sessions as training. And if possible, for a “final” Milky Way image, plan a trip to a nearby dark-sky location (even an hour east into the mountains can go down to Bortle 4 or so). By following these steps, you should be able to create a stacked Milky Way image even under Redmond’s city glow. It will require more post-process effort (to tease out the Milky Way from the skyglow) – techniques we’ll discuss in Section 4 – but you’ll have gained valuable experience in using your tracker, camera settings, and stacking workflow. ### B. Imaging a Bright Deep-Sky Object (Orion Nebula) with a Telephoto Lens *Goal:* Use the tracking mount and Canon R6 to capture a bright celestial object (the Orion Nebula, **Messier 42**) from Redmond. Orion Nebula is an ideal practice target in winter: it’s very bright and can be captured even in light pollution. This exercise teaches you to handle longer focal length shots, focusing, and stacking for deep-sky objects (DSOs). **Step 1 – Plan and Set Up:** The **Orion Nebula** is visible in the constellation Orion (look for Orion’s Belt – M42 is just below it in the Sword). In Redmond, from roughly October through March, Orion is well placed in the southern sky in the evenings. Choose a clear night, and again aim for minimal moonlight (though Orion is bright enough that a bit of moon might not ruin it, it’s still better under dark moonless conditions). Set up your **tripod and tracking mount** as before. This time, attach a **telephoto lens** to your Canon R6 – something like a 70-200mm zoom or a 300mm if you have it. Even a 135mm or 85mm can work; the nebula will just appear smaller. Let’s assume you have, for example, a 70-200mm lens: set it to **200mm** for maximum magnification. Mount the camera+lens onto the tracker (for stability at 200mm, use the lens’s tripod collar if it has one, so it balances better). **Balance the mount carefully** with the counterweight, as the telephoto setup will be front-heavy. Polar align the mount as precisely as you can – longer focal lengths will magnify any alignment error. Use a polar alignment app or the polar scope reticle to get it spot-on. **Step 2 – Find and Frame the Target:** Finding Orion Nebula is easier than finding a dim galaxy; M42 is visible to the naked eye as a fuzzy star in Orion’s Sword. Through your camera, it will appear as a small but bright fuzzy patch. Easiest method: use a planetarium app to identify the nebula’s location relative to Orion’s Belt. Roughly point your camera in that direction. Take a **test shot** at high ISO, say 5-second exposure at ISO 12800. You should see a cluster of stars (the trapezium and running man nebula nearby) and a glow – that’s the Orion Nebula. Adjust aim as needed to center it. At 200mm on a full-frame, Orion Nebula will not fill the frame – you might include the entire Sword of Orion (which is fine). Once it’s in frame, tighten everything. It’s often helpful to use the R6’s **3x or 10x Live View magnification** to fine-tune framing: you can actually see the brighter stars of the nebula region in live view (especially if you up the ISO and maybe use “frame averaging” if the R6 offers a night view mode). Center the nebula. **Step 3 – Focus:** Focusing a telephoto is similar to before, but depth of field is even shallower. Pick a bright star (Orion’s Belt star or Rigel, for example) in live view at 10×. Manually focus until the star is a tiny point. The R6’s focus peaking might highlight it when sharp. At 200mm, you might also try the R6’s autofocus on a bright star or planet – sometimes it can lock (the R6 has sensitive low-light AF). If it does, great, but verify manually afterwards. Once focused, **turn off autofocus** and avoid touching the focus ring. **Step 4 – Camera Settings for DSO:** For deep-sky objects, since they are point-like or diffuse, the exposure strategy is slightly different from wide Milky Way. The Orion Nebula is extremely bright in its core but fainter in outer areas. In a light-polluted sky, long exposures will brighten the background and also *blow out* the core of Orion Nebula (the bright center will saturate). We will use stacking to build the image, so we’ll take multiple shorter exposures that preserve detail. A good starting point: **Shutter = 30 seconds**, **Aperture = wide open (e.g. f/2.8 if using a 70-200 f/2.8, or f/4 if lens is f/4)**, **ISO = 800**. At 200mm, a well-aligned tracker should handle 30s without noticeable trailing. You could push to 45s or 60s if your polar alignment is excellent and the mount is tracking well (and the stars still look round on test shots). However, in Redmond’s light pollution, even 30s might already show a bright grey sky. ISO 800 is chosen because the R6’s sensor has good dynamic range there, and Orion’s core is so bright that higher ISO might blow it out more. Some astrophotographers even use ISO 400 for Orion to prevent overexposure of the core ([ISO can make a difference! (Orion nebula) - with reprocessed image](https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/848508-iso-can-make-a-difference-orion-nebula-with-reprocessed-image/#:~:text=image%20www,as%20high%20as%201600%2C)). Try a **test exposure**: 30s, ISO800. Check the result: you should clearly see the Orion Nebula’s bright core (likely a white blob) and some nebulosity around it, and lots of stars. The sky background will be bright. Ensure you’re not completely saturating the core – a little saturation is okay, but detail in the very center might be lost (that’s expected unless we do high dynamic range). If the whole frame is too bright, drop to 20s or ISO 400. Conversely, if you see almost nothing of the nebula, increase to 60s or ISO 1600. The key is to capture the faint outer nebulosity *without* the skyfog overwhelming it. Also disable long-exposure NR again (we’ll use darks). Set the **drive or intervalometer** to continuous shooting. **Step 5 – Capture Multiple Exposures:** Shoot a series of at least **20 or 30 exposures** of the Orion Nebula. Because each exposure is relatively short (e.g. 30s), getting more frames will significantly improve the final image when stacked. You might aim for a total integration time of around 15–30 minutes as a starting point (e.g., 30 frames × 30s = 15 minutes). The more the better, if you have patience – even an hour of total exposure will further improve the image ([The Orion Nebula using a DSLR and 200mm Lens - Reddit](https://www.reddit.com/r/astrophotography/comments/18rogw2/the_orion_nebula_using_a_dslr_and_200mm_lens/#:~:text=The%20final%20image%20includes%2091,the%20camera%20and%20automate)). As you shoot, periodically re-check focus (temperature changes can shift focus, and in cold Washington nights, lenses can contract). If you notice any drift of the nebula off-center over time, you can pause and re-center. Optionally, you can incorporate a technique: take a few shorter exposures too, like 5-second or 10-second shots, specifically to capture the very core of Orion (the Trapezium stars) without them blowing out. These can later be layered in during processing (HDR composite) so the core isn’t just a white blob. This is optional advanced step; if new to this, you can skip it and accept a bright core. After your lights, take **dark frames** as well (same method: cap the lens and shoot, at 30s ISO800 etc, about 10 frames). Darks will help remove the hot pixels and any amp glow from these longer shots. Also consider **flat frames** the next day to correct vignetting at 200mm (telephotos often have noticeable corner shading, which flats can correct in stacking). **Step 6 – Stack the DSO images:** After the session, stack your Orion Nebula frames using deep-sky stacking software. **DeepSkyStacker (DSS)** is a good choice for this, as it handles star alignment and calibration frames well ([Astrophotography Image Stacking Software | Which One is Best?](https://astrobackyard.com/astrophotography-image-stacking-software/#:~:text=DeepSkyStacker)). Load all your 30s exposures, plus the dark frames (and flats/bias if you took them), then register and stack. The result will be a 32-bit TIFF or FITS image. This stacked image will look faint and bland before processing (often a gray background with a whitish fuzz where Orion is). That’s normal – the magic comes in processing. **Step 7 – Post-process the DSO image:** Open the stacked result in an image editor (Photoshop, GIMP, or a specialized astro editor). The Orion Nebula will reveal itself as you **stretch the image**. Use **Levels and Curves** adjustments to brighten the faint nebulosity without blowing out the core. For example, bring the black point up to darken the background sky, and use a mild curve to boost midtones so the purple/reds of the nebula come out ([Astrophotography Image Processing in Photoshop | Easy to Follow (Deep Sky)](https://astrobackyard.com/tutorials/astrophotography-tutorial-1/#:~:text=Step%203%3A%20Levels%20Adjustment)). Since light pollution is strong, you’ll likely need to perform a **gradient removal** – many astro software or Photoshop plugins (like GradientXTerminator) can remove the background glow, leaving a neutral dark background ([Astrophotography Image Processing in Photoshop | Easy to Follow (Deep Sky)](https://astrobackyard.com/tutorials/astrophotography-tutorial-1/#:~:text=Those%20of%20us%20who%20shoot,role%20in%20correcting%20the%20data)). After gradient removal, adjust color balance so the sky is neutral (not overly orange or green). The Orion Nebula has a lot of **purple, red, and blue** tones – you can increase saturation to highlight those. Use care to not over-saturate noise. If needed, apply **noise reduction** (Topaz DeNoise AI or Photoshop’s noise reduction) to the dim areas. The core of Orion will probably be over-bright; if you took short exposures for the core, you can blend one of those in (layer the short exposure on top of the stacked image, align, and use a layer mask to reveal the core from the short exposure). This preserves the trapezium stars while keeping the deep exposure for the faint outer nebula – a technique used in many Orion images. Even without HDR blending, your stacked image will show the fuzzy wings of M42 and perhaps the neighboring Running Man nebula. **Tips for Overcoming Light Pollution (DSO):** The same principles of stacking multiple frames to improve signal apply. Orion Nebula is bright enough that it punches through light pollution, but background sky brightness will limit how deep you can go on fainter nebula detail. Stacking more frames helps average out the sky brightness and enhances the nebula’s visibility ([Astrophotography Image Processing in Photoshop | Easy to Follow (Deep Sky)](https://astrobackyard.com/tutorials/astrophotography-tutorial-1/#:~:text=Those%20of%20us%20who%20shoot,role%20in%20correcting%20the%20data)). Also, using **lower ISO (400-800)** leverages the Canon R6’s good dynamic range to capture faint detail without saturating the highlights ([ISO can make a difference! (Orion nebula) - with reprocessed image](https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/848508-iso-can-make-a-difference-orion-nebula-with-reprocessed-image/#:~:text=image%20www,as%20high%20as%201600%2C)). When processing, pay extra attention to color correction – city light can add an orange cast to everything, which you can neutralize by adjusting levels of each color channel (make the background truly black/gray by equalizing the histogram channels) ([Astrophotography Image Processing in Photoshop | Easy to Follow (Deep Sky)](https://astrobackyard.com/tutorials/astrophotography-tutorial-1/#:~:text=By%20adjusting%20the%20individual%20channels,overly%20present%20in%20your%20image)). Another tip: since Redmond’s light pollution is mostly urban glow, a **good UHC or multiband nebula filter** (if you ever invest in one) can selectively transmit nebula emissions and block some city light. For example, an Optolong L-Pro or L-eNhance clip filter could improve contrast on emission nebulae like Orion. But that’s additional gear – not required for practice, just a note. Lastly, picking **bright targets** is key in the city. Orion Nebula is among the brightest DSOs. Others you could try: the Andromeda Galaxy (M31) in autumn – though larger and dimmer, it can be done with many short exposures. The Pleiades (M45) reflection nebula is another (the blue nebulosity will be subtle under light pollution). Globular cluster M13 in summer is bright and will show as a starry ball. Start with these kinds of targets where light pollution’s effect can be managed. By completing Exercise A (Milky Way) and Exercise B (Orion Nebula), you will practice **wide-field and telephoto astrophotography techniques** in a challenging environment. You’ll learn to optimize camera settings, polar align and use the tracking mount, and capture sequences for stacking. This experience in Redmond will make you well-prepared to tackle astrophotography in darker locations like Moab, where the same steps will yield even better results. ## 3. Astrophotography with the Canon R6 (Capabilities, Noise, and Configuration) The Canon EOS R6 is a highly capable camera for astrophotography, especially when paired with a tracking mount. It features a full-frame 20 Megapixel sensor known for excellent low-light performance and an **ISO-invariant** design (meaning it preserves dynamic range well even at higher ISO) ([Testing the Canon R6 for Astrophotography – The Amazing Sky](https://amazingsky.net/2021/09/23/testing-the-canon-r6-for-astrophotography/#:~:text=The%20Canon%20R6%20has%20proven,Nikon%20and%20Sony%20mirrorless%20cameras)). In practice, the R6 can produce low-noise images of the night sky and has some advantages over earlier DSLRs (like a very sensitive live view, and no mirror slap to worry about). Here we discuss the R6’s long-exposure capabilities/limitations, how to reduce noise by stacking, and how to configure the camera settings for astrophotography. ### Long-Exposure Capabilities and Limitations of the Canon R6 The Canon R6 can take exposures in **Bulb mode** essentially as long as you need (minutes or even hours), limited by battery life and sensor heating. By default, in manual mode the longest standard shutter speed is 30 seconds; anything longer requires Bulb. The R6 has a built-in **Bulb Timer** feature that lets you set a specific bulb exposure time (so you don’t have to hold the shutter button) ([Product Manual : EOS R6 : B: Long (Bulb) Exposures - Canon](https://cam.start.canon/en/C004/manual/html/UG-02_ShootingMode_0090.html#:~:text=Product%20Manual%20%3A%20EOS%20R6,button%20during%20bulb%20exposures%2C)), which is very handy for astrophotography. For example, you can program a 2-minute exposure in-camera, hit the shutter once, and it will expose for 120 seconds and stop automatically. However, **note:** the R6’s internal **Interval Timer** does *not* work in Bulb mode. This means if you want to automatically shoot multiple long exposures (longer than 30s), the built-in intervalometer won’t advance between bulb shots ([R6 interval timer issue.: Canon EOS R Talk Forum](https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4591711#:~:text=R6%20interval%20timer%20issue,Julie)). You’ll need an external intervalometer or manually start each exposure. One workaround is to use the Bulb Timer for a fixed long exposure, but you’d still have to trigger each one or use an external remote that can program a sequence of bulbs. For exposures **30 seconds and under**, the R6’s internal intervalometer works great – you can set it to take unlimited 30s shots with a short interval and it will fire away ([Solution for series of long exposures on R6? - FM Forums](https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/next/1762095#:~:text=Forums%20www,one%20second%20and%20100%20hours)). In terms of sensor performance, the R6 is rated as one of the better low-light cameras in Canon’s lineup. It has relatively **large pixels** (since 20MP on full-frame) which gather light efficiently, resulting in low read noise and good high ISO performance. In testing, the R6 showed **low noise** (though not class-leading, it’s on par with other top full-frame cameras) and excellent **dynamic range**, especially at lower ISOs ([Testing the Canon R6 for Astrophotography – The Amazing Sky](https://amazingsky.net/2021/09/23/testing-the-canon-r6-for-astrophotography/#:~:text=The%20Canon%20R6%20has%20proven,Nikon%20and%20Sony%20mirrorless%20cameras)) ([Testing the Canon R6 for Astrophotography – The Amazing Sky](https://amazingsky.net/2021/09/23/testing-the-canon-r6-for-astrophotography/#:~:text=The%20Canon%20R6%20is%20superb,for%20its)). This means you can capture faint details and later brighten the shadows (for example, foregrounds or dim nebulosity) without introducing severe noise – a benefit of the ISO-invariant sensor design ([Testing the Canon R6 for Astrophotography – The Amazing Sky](https://amazingsky.net/2021/09/23/testing-the-canon-r6-for-astrophotography/#:~:text=The%20Canon%20R6%20has%20proven,Nikon%20and%20Sony%20mirrorless%20cameras)). One limitation observed is a subtle **amp glow** on long exposures. Amp glow is a sensor artifact where parts of the image (often edges) get a magenta glow due to sensor electronics heating. The R6 has a “magenta edge” amp glow that can appear in multi-minute exposures ([Testing the Canon R6 for Astrophotography – The Amazing Sky](https://amazingsky.net/2021/09/23/testing-the-canon-r6-for-astrophotography/#:~:text=Image%20Quality%20Flaw)). It’s not extremely strong, but in a 8-minute exposure at ISO800, testers noted a bit of glow on one side of the frame. The good news is that **dark frame subtraction** (either via the camera’s Long Exposure NR or in post with dark frames) removes this glow effectively. So if you shoot, say, 4-minute exposures of a nebula, you should take dark frames or leave LENR on to handle the amp glow. For typical sub-1-minute shots (like Milky Way at 30s), amp glow is negligible. Another potential limitation is **battery life**: long exposures with on-sensor stabilization off and using an intervalometer are actually not that power-hungry, and the R6’s battery (LP-E6NH) can last several hours of continuous shooting. But in cold weather, or if you use the camera’s screen a lot, it’s wise to have a spare battery ready. The R6 also can output a lot of heat if you do many long exposures in a row (especially in warm ambient temperatures). It doesn’t have a serious overheating issue for stills (its notorious overheating was for video), but sensor temperature does rise after dozens of long shots, potentially increasing noise. If you notice noise increasing, give the camera a break or space out exposures. The R6’s **in-body image stabilization (IBIS)** does not directly help for astrophotography on a tripod (since the goal is the mount tracks the sky, not the sensor). In fact, it’s recommended to **turn off IBIS** when the camera is mounted to a tracker or tripod for long exposures. The IBIS system can introduce small star distortions if it tries to correct what it perceives as motion. (Canon’s IBIS is usually smart enough to detect a tripod and not act, but to be safe, off is best.) As one astrophotographer noted, features like IBIS (and fancy autofocus modes) are of “limited or no value for astrophotography” ([Testing the Canon R6 for Astrophotography – The Amazing Sky](https://amazingsky.net/2021/09/23/testing-the-canon-r6-for-astrophotography/#:~:text=I%20tested%20an%20R6%20purchased,or%20no%20value%20for%20astrophotography)). In summary, the R6 can handle **long exposures** well: many users have successfully taken 4, 5, even 8-minute single exposures for deep-sky when mounted on telescopes ([Testing the Canon R6 for Astrophotography – The Amazing Sky](https://amazingsky.net/2021/09/23/testing-the-canon-r6-for-astrophotography/#:~:text=,5%20with%20its%20field%20flattener%2Freducer)). The practical limit will be your tracking accuracy and sky conditions rather than the camera itself. For wide-field, you likely won’t exceed a couple of minutes per exposure. For deep-sky, you might go a few minutes and take multiple shots. The camera’s limitations (amp glow, intervalometer in bulb) can all be worked with by using darks and external interval controllers. Overall, **expect the R6 to deliver clean and detailed images** up to fairly high ISOs. Tests have shown it maintains good detail even at ISO 3200–6400, with noise performance on par with Nikon and Sony full-frames ([Testing the Canon R6 for Astrophotography – The Amazing Sky](https://amazingsky.net/2021/09/23/testing-the-canon-r6-for-astrophotography/#:~:text=The%20Canon%20R6%20has%20proven,Nikon%20and%20Sony%20mirrorless%20cameras)), which is great for capturing the faint light of night scenes. ### Reducing Noise with Stacked Images One of the biggest advantages of digital astrophotography is the ability to **stack multiple images** to reduce noise. The Canon R6 produces low-noise frames, but under the dark conditions and with the extreme stretching we do in astro processing, noise will be present. By stacking many exposures (as we did in the Redmond exercises), you essentially average out the random noise and amplify the true signal (stars, nebulae). The result is a cleaner final image with more detail visible. Here’s how stacking helps with the R6’s images: Each individual photo has some amount of **shot noise** (from the randomness of photons) and **read noise** (from the camera electronics). If you take N images and stack them (using a median or mean combine), the signal (which adds coherently) increases by N, whereas the noise (which is random) increases by about √N ([Astrophotography Image Stacking Software | Which One is Best?](https://astrobackyard.com/astrophotography-image-stacking-software/#:~:text=,image%20with%20editing%20software%20like)). This means the **signal-to-noise ratio (SNR)** improves by factor of √N. For example, stacking 16 images can improve SNR by 4×, effectively making the image much cleaner ([Astrophotography Image Stacking Software | Which One is Best?](https://astrobackyard.com/astrophotography-image-stacking-software/#:~:text=,image%20with%20editing%20software%20like)). The R6’s sensor being ISO-invariant means you could also shoot at a lower ISO and brighten later, but stacking is still needed to combat noise from long exposures. To maximize noise reduction in stacks: - **Use calibration frames:** The R6 will have some hot pixels and fixed pattern noise. Taking dark frames at the same settings allows the stacking software to subtract those, eliminating “amp glow” edges and consistent hot pixels. If you shoot a lot on a warm night, also consider using **bias frames** (quick 1/8000s dark shots) to model read noise, and **flat frames** to remove vignetting. All these calibration frames help to produce a cleaner stack ([Astrophotography Image Processing in Photoshop | Easy to Follow (Deep Sky)](https://astrobackyard.com/tutorials/astrophotography-tutorial-1/#:~:text=Those%20of%20us%20who%20shoot,role%20in%20correcting%20the%20data)). - **Dither frames:** If using software like Astro Photography Tool or the Star Adventurer 2i app can do it, moving the telescope slightly between shots (dithering) causes noise pattern to shift, which stacking can then identify as noise and reduce. If you’re just using the internal timer, you might not dither, and that’s okay – just more frames will help the averaging. - **Turn off in-camera noise reduction:** As mentioned, the R6’s **Long Exposure NR** takes a dark after each shot. While this removes noise in each frame, it also means you only get half the number of light frames in a given time. For stacking, it’s more efficient to capture many light frames and use separate darks once, rather than the camera doing one for every light. So keep LENR off while shooting sequence ([ Astrophotography Tips from Phil Hart | Canon Australia ](https://www.canon.com.au/get-inspired/astrophotography-tips-phil-hart#:~:text=Shutter%20Speed%3A%20Use%20a%20shutter,reduction%20in%20the%20%E2%80%98Shooting%20Menu%E2%80%99)) – you’ll capture twice as many images, which stacking will handle. The High ISO NR setting only affects JPEGs, not RAW, so it can be ignored (it’s usually off for RAW shooters anyway). - **Use proper stacking software:** Tools like **DeepSkyStacker**, **Sequator**, or **Siril** will align and combine images using algorithms that reject outlier pixels (airplanes, satellites, random bursts of amp noise) and compute an average or median that greatly reduces noise ([Astrophotography Image Stacking Software | Which One is Best?](https://astrobackyard.com/astrophotography-image-stacking-software/#:~:text=,image%20with%20editing%20software%20like)). Ensure you use these rather than trying to manually blend, as they have optimized routines for noise rejection. For example, a median stacking will pick the median value for each pixel from all frames – random bright pixel outliers (noise) get thrown out ([Astrophotography Image Stacking Software | Which One is Best?](https://astrobackyard.com/astrophotography-image-stacking-software/#:~:text=,image%20with%20editing%20software%20like)). - **Shoot more total integration**: With the R6’s low read noise, you can benefit from shooting lots of shorter exposures vs fewer long ones. For instance, 60×1-minute exposures can yield a great result after stacking, with minimal noise, as opposed to 6×10-minute exposures. Shorter exposures also avoid too much skyfog and give you flexibility to discard bad frames. So to reduce noise, err on the side of **more frames** rather than super long single frames. The total light gathered (integration time) is what matters. When you stack R6 files, you’ll find the combined image can be stretched (brightened in post) much more before noise becomes objectionable. Details in the Milky Way dust lanes or in faint nebula will appear that were buried in noise in single frames. In our Redmond Milky Way exercise, stacking was essential to reveal the Milky Way at all, as a single 60s frame might barely show it above the city glow. By stacking and averaging out the skyglow noise, we can then subtract that gradient and amplify the Milky Way signal. Essentially, **stacking is your number one tool for noise reduction** in astrophotography, and the R6 provides high-quality RAW files that respond well to this process. Additionally, the R6’s sensor being **ISO invariant** means that whether you shoot at ISO 800 and brighten later or ISO 3200, the noise levels in the final result (after equalizing brightness) are similar ([Testing the Canon R6 for Astrophotography – The Amazing Sky](https://amazingsky.net/2021/09/23/testing-the-canon-r6-for-astrophotography/#:~:text=The%20Canon%20R6%20has%20proven,Nikon%20and%20Sony%20mirrorless%20cameras)). This suggests you don’t need to push ISO extremely high; you can use moderate ISO (to avoid clipping stars) and rely on stacking + post-processing to bring out the faint stuff. The dynamic range at ISO 800 is better (less blown highlights, more color depth in bright stars) than at 6400, for example. Stacking multiple ISO 800 shots and then stretching will yield a cleaner result than one ISO 6400 shot – and you’ll preserve star colors and highlights by not over-amplifying in a single shot. In summary, to reduce noise: shoot RAW, take many exposures, use stacking with calibration frames, and avoid any in-camera processes that reduce your number of light frames. The result will be images where the R6’s low-light prowess is fully realized – smooth backgrounds and visible details even from faint night-sky objects. ### Camera Configuration for Astrophotography (Optimal Settings on the R6) Properly configuring your Canon R6 before a night shoot ensures you get the best results. Here is a rundown of recommended settings and configurations: - **Shoot in RAW format:** Always enable RAW image capture (or RAW+JPEG if you want quick previews). RAW files preserve the maximum dynamic range and detail, which is crucial for astrophotography. JPEGs will throw away a lot of faint data and make post-processing much harder. (On the R6, this is in the red camera menu under Image Quality – select RAW.) *Image Quality: Always shoot RAW to capture the most detail possible* ([ Astrophotography Tips from Phil Hart | Canon Australia ](https://www.canon.com.au/get-inspired/astrophotography-tips-phil-hart#:~:text=Recommended%20Camera%20Settings%20for%20Night,Sky%20Photography)). - **Manual Mode & Exposure Settings:** Use **Manual (M)** mode so you have full control over exposure time, aperture, and ISO. Set the **shutter speed** based on your tracking capability and sky conditions (e.g., 30s, 1min, 2min, etc., as discussed in exercises). Set **aperture** to the lens’s widest (or one stop down if the stars look sharper that way – some lenses benefit from stopping down slightly to reduce coma/aberrations). Set **ISO** to an appropriate value – common ISOs for astro on R6 are **800, 1600, or 3200** depending on subject. For wide Milky Way shots, ISO 3200 or 6400 with 15-30s is common ([ Astrophotography Tips from Phil Hart | Canon Australia ](https://www.canon.com.au/get-inspired/astrophotography-tips-phil-hart#:~:text=Recommended%20Camera%20Settings%20for%20Night,Sky%20Photography)). For tracked long exposures, ISO 800-1600 is often used to maximize dynamic range while still gathering enough signal ([ISO can make a difference! (Orion nebula) - with reprocessed image](https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/848508-iso-can-make-a-difference-orion-nebula-with-reprocessed-image/#:~:text=image%20www,as%20high%20as%201600%2C)). Remember, higher ISO doesn’t make the camera gather more light; it just amplifies the signal. Since the R6 sensor is low-noise, you can use moderately high ISO if needed, but don’t be afraid to use lower ISO and just stack more. - **White Balance:** Set a fixed white balance rather than Auto WB. Auto WB might shift between frames and also will try to neutralize the very thing you’re capturing (a sky that’s not truly white). A common practice is to use **Daylight WB (~5200K)** as a standard ([ Astrophotography Tips from Phil Hart | Canon Australia ](https://www.canon.com.au/get-inspired/astrophotography-tips-phil-hart#:~:text=Shutter%20Speed%3A%20Use%20a%20shutter,reduction%20in%20the%20%E2%80%98Shooting%20Menu%E2%80%99)). This will render the night sky with a natural cool tint (since night skies are usually bluish/neutral when properly processed). Some astrophotographers prefer a cooler WB like 3800K (Tungsten) for a more neutral preview of stars against sky. In any case, since you’re shooting RAW, you can adjust in post exactly. But having a consistent WB across all frames helps when reviewing and stacking. Canon’s own astro tips recommend Daylight WB for natural color ([ Astrophotography Tips from Phil Hart | Canon Australia ](https://www.canon.com.au/get-inspired/astrophotography-tips-phil-hart#:~:text=Shutter%20Speed%3A%20Use%20a%20shutter,reduction%20in%20the%20%E2%80%98Shooting%20Menu%E2%80%99)). - **Long Exposure Noise Reduction (LENR):** **Disable Long Exposure NR** in the menu ([ Astrophotography Tips from Phil Hart | Canon Australia ](https://www.canon.com.au/get-inspired/astrophotography-tips-phil-hart#:~:text=Shutter%20Speed%3A%20Use%20a%20shutter,reduction%20in%20the%20%E2%80%98Shooting%20Menu%E2%80%99)), especially if you plan to stack or take many frames. As discussed, LENR will halve your imaging efficiency by inserting a dark frame after each light frame. It’s better to capture manual dark frames later. The only time you might use LENR is if you are taking just a *single* long exposure and want the camera to clean it up for you (for example, a one-off star trail shot). For stacking multiple exposures, definitely turn it off. - **High ISO Noise Reduction:** This setting affects JPEGs only (and possibly the in-camera histogram which is based on JPEG). It can be set to off or low; it doesn’t impact the RAW data ([White balance for camera : r/AskAstrophotography - Reddit](https://www.reddit.com/r/AskAstrophotography/comments/15h24hx/white_balance_for_camera/#:~:text=White%20balance%20only%20matters%20for,in%20any%20photo%20editing%20software)). To avoid any confusion, turn it off. You will do noise reduction in post on the final image instead. - **In-Body Image Stabilizer (IBIS):** Turn **IS** off (both in-body and any lens IS). On the R6, if using Canon RF lenses, you might have dual IS. While Canon claims the camera will detect tripod use, for multi-second exposures with pinpoint stars, it’s safest to just disable stabilization. This prevents the stabilizer from possibly introducing a wobble or blurring when it’s not needed. - **Mirror Lock-Up / Shutter Mode:** The R6 is mirrorless, so no mirror slap to worry about. However, you can still minimize vibrations by using **Electronic First Curtain** or fully **Electronic Shutter** for your exposures. The default is mechanical first curtain which is usually fine. If you want utmost vibration-free, you could use electronic shutter (which on R6 has no downsides for long exposures, unlike rolling shutter issues with fast action). Just note that some stacking software might not handle the R6’s CR3 files if there’s any weird metadata from electronic shutter – but generally it’s fine. If you do use mechanical shutter, it might be good to enable a 2-second self-timer delay when you trigger manually, so that any button-press vibration dampens out. - **Intervalometer / Shutter release:** If shooting sequences under 30s, use the built-in intervalometer (Drive mode -> Interval timer). Set number of shots to unlimited or a specific count, and interval to a time slightly longer than your exposure (to give the camera a tiny buffer, e.g., for 30s exposures, a 32s interval). For longer exposures, use an **external intervalometer** or a remote shutter app (Canon’s Camera Connect app can trigger bulb but not program sequences easily). Alternatively, if using the Star Adventurer’s SNAP port, configure that via the console app to automate the shots. The key is to avoid having to manually press the shutter each time, which can shake the camera and is tedious. So some form of remote or automated release is needed. The R6’s intervalometer is good; just remember its limitation with Bulb. - **Focus:** Set lens to **MF** (manual focus) once you’ve achieved focus. Use tools like focus magnification and focus peaking. The R6 has an advantage: its *“Focus Guide”* (if using RF lenses or certain EF with adapter) can sometimes work on stars – but generally, manual focus by eye is best. After focusing, consider taping the focus ring or turning off any focus-by-wire to avoid accidental changes. - **Exposure Simulation / Bright Monitoring:** On Sony cameras there’s a “bright monitoring” mode for framing dark scenes. The R6’s live view is pretty sensitive and will show stars at high ISO. Make sure **Exposure Simulation** is enabled (so that the live view shows roughly how bright the current settings make the image). If it’s too dark, temporarily raise ISO or open aperture to help frame, then revert to your shooting settings. The R6 can also use its **Movie mode high ISO** to see the sky – Alan Dyer notes that the R6’s live view in video mode can go up to extremely high ISO (51,200+) and make the Milky Way visible for framing ([Testing the Canon R6 for Astrophotography – The Amazing Sky](https://amazingsky.net/2021/09/23/testing-the-canon-r6-for-astrophotography/#:~:text=of%20Nikon%20and%20Sony%20mirrorless,cameras)). You could switch to video mode (without recording) just to compose if needed, then switch back to photo mode. This is a trick to leverage the sensor’s high gain viewing capability. - **Backscreen and EVF settings:** Lower the brightness of your LCD screen at night so as not to blind you (and to judge the histogram properly). Also, disable any auto review of images if you want to save battery (or at least shorten it). You might want to enable the **red display light** mode (some cameras have it) or just use the screen sparingly to preserve night vision. - **Storage:** Use a fast, large memory card. Astrophotography can generate dozens or hundreds of RAW files. Make sure your card can handle sustained writing (the R6’s RAW are ~20-30 MB each, so 100 images is ~2-3 GB). Also carry spares. - **Miscellaneous:** If using an older Canon lens that has a focus distance scale, note down or mark the approximate infinity point (though trust but verify with actual star focus). Disable any **long exposure auto-off** or sleep timers so the camera doesn’t go to sleep in the middle of a sequence. Ensure your **diopter** (viewfinder focus) is set if you use the EVF to check stars (though the LCD is usually easier). These configurations will set up your R6 for success. To recap key settings: **Manual mode, RAW, Daylight WB, Manual focus, appropriate shutter/ISO, IBIS off, LENR off, intervalometer ready**. Phil Hart (Canon astrophotographer) provides a concise list aligning with this: *Shutter ~30s, Aperture wide open, ISO 3200 (for static Milky Way), RAW, Daylight WB, NR off, manual focus* ([ Astrophotography Tips from Phil Hart | Canon Australia ](https://www.canon.com.au/get-inspired/astrophotography-tips-phil-hart#:~:text=Recommended%20Camera%20Settings%20for%20Night,Sky%20Photography)). With the tracking mount, the shutter can be longer and ISO lower, but the rest remains the same. Finally, when shooting, keep an eye on your **histogram**. Don’t rely on the screen’s appearance alone. The histogram (for the JPEG) will tell you if you’re severely overexposed or underexposed. Aim to have the sky background hump not clipping the right side. And always review your first few shots at 100% zoom to ensure sharp stars (no trailing, good focus). The R6’s resolution (20MP) is forgiving on star tightness (pixels are big, so slight focus error isn’t as obvious as on a 45MP sensor, but still strive for perfect focus). By configuring the R6 as above, you minimize technical hiccups and ensure you’re capturing the best possible data. The camera, when set up correctly, will reward you with high-quality images that respond well to the post-processing techniques we’ll cover next. ## 4. Post-Processing Workflow (Stacking and Editing Astrophotos) Post-processing is where the faint details captured by your camera are brought out into a stunning final image. The workflow typically involves **stacking** your raw frames to produce an integrated image, then **editing** that image to enhance detail, color, and contrast. Below we outline recommended software for stacking and editing, along with techniques for improving your astrophotos in post. ### Stacking Software for Astrophotography Stacking is a crucial step for noise reduction and signal enhancement. Fortunately, there are several excellent (often free) software options to stack astrophotography images: - **DeepSkyStacker (DSS):** A popular, free program for Windows dedicated to astrophotography stacking ([Astrophotography Image Stacking Software | Which One is Best?](https://astrobackyard.com/astrophotography-image-stacking-software/#:~:text=DeepSkyStacker)). It aligns stars in your images, and combines frames with methods like average or median, supporting dark/flat/bias frame calibration. DSS has a user-friendly interface and is well-documented. It’s great for deep-sky images (e.g., nebulae, galaxies) and can handle dozens of light frames. You load your lights, darks, flats, bias, register them, and DSS produces a stacked TIFF file. *DeepSkyStacker is a favorite stacking tool for many astrophotographers due to its simplicity and effectiveness* ([Astrophotography Image Stacking Software | Which One is Best?](https://astrobackyard.com/astrophotography-image-stacking-software/#:~:text=DeepSkyStacker%20is%20my%20overall%20favorite,stacking%20tool%20for%20astrophotography)). If you’re on Windows (or using Windows via Parallels on Mac), DSS is a go-to. It might struggle with extremely wide-field images that have foreground (like a Milky Way landscape with trees) because those require masking the foreground (DSS aligns everything by stars, so the foreground would smear). For pure sky shots or deep-sky, DSS works very well. - **Sequator:** A free Windows program that is especially handy for **wide-field nightscape images** ([Astrophotography Image Stacking Software | Which One is Best?](https://astrobackyard.com/astrophotography-image-stacking-software/#:~:text=Sequator%20is%20easy%20to%20use,Milky%20Way%20Photography%20and%20Nightscapes)). Sequator can align the sky while keeping a static foreground if you provide a mask, making it perfect for Milky Way + landscape shots. It’s known for being **easy to use** and fast. You simply add your star photos, and if you have one, a separate untracked foreground shot, and Sequator will stack the sky and blend the foreground (or you can let the foreground blur if you want star trails). It also supports simple calibration frames. The interface is straightforward with checkboxes for options like “freeze ground” (to not move the foreground) ([Astrophotography Image Stacking Software | Which One is Best?](https://astrobackyard.com/astrophotography-image-stacking-software/#:~:text=Below%2C%20you%20can%20watch%20my,Sequator%20on%20my%20astrophotography%20images)). For someone shooting with a static tripod (no tracker) or doing panoramas, Sequator is excellent. Even with a tracker, you can use Sequator just to stack the sky region. *It’s the recommended tool for Milky Way photography and nightscapes by many, due to its simplicity and effectiveness* ([Astrophotography Image Stacking Software | Which One is Best?](https://astrobackyard.com/astrophotography-image-stacking-software/#:~:text=Sequator%20is%20easy%20to%20use,Milky%20Way%20Photography%20and%20Nightscapes)). - **Siril:** A free, open-source astrophotography suite (available on Windows, Mac, Linux) ([Astrophotography Image Stacking Software | Which One is Best?](https://astrobackyard.com/astrophotography-image-stacking-software/#:~:text=match%20at%20L255%20Siril%20is,quality%20of%20your%20final%20integration)). Siril can stack images and also offers processing tools similar to PixInsight (but free). It has scripts that automate processing for beginners (like a one-click deep-sky stacking workflow). Siril supports **advanced calibration** (darks, flats, bias) and can work with sequences of images. It might have a steeper learning curve than DSS or Sequator, but it’s very powerful. A benefit is it can handle large RAW files and is actively developed. Many Mac users use Siril as an alternative to DSS. It also can do things like photometric color calibration (to get accurate star colors) and background extraction to remove gradients. If you are willing to invest a bit of time learning it, Siril can be an all-in-one solution from stacking to initial stretches ([Astrophotography Image Stacking Software | Which One is Best?](https://astrobackyard.com/astrophotography-image-stacking-software/#:~:text=Siril%20is%20an%20open,quality%20of%20your%20final%20integration)). - **Starry Landscape Stacker (SLS):** (Mac only) A paid app (~$40) specifically for stacking nightscape images with foregrounds (similar niche to Sequator). If you’re on Mac and doing a lot of tracked sky + static foreground blending, SLS is highly regarded for its alignment accuracy and easy masking interface. - **PixInsight:** (Cross-platform, commercial) The powerhouse software for astrophotography processing, which also includes stacking capabilities. PixInsight is expensive and has a steep learning curve, but in a full workflow it offers unmatched control (from stacking, noise reduction, gradient removal, to advanced sharpening). This might be something to consider later if you get very deep into the hobby – many advanced astrophotographers use PixInsight after stacking to do specialized processing. For stacking alone, the free options suffice, but PixInsight’s stacking (Weighted Batch Preprocessing script) is very good. - **Photoshop (manual):** In some cases (especially for a small number of frames or star trail creation), you can stack manually in Photoshop by loading images as layers and using blending modes or opacity. For example, for 5-10 Milky Way shots, one can load all layers, use Auto-Align (which sometimes works for stars, but often not well) or manually align by nudging, then set each layer opacity lower or use a smart object median stack. Photoshop wasn’t designed for this, and alignment is tricky, so we recommend using dedicated astro stackers for most tasks ([Astrophotography Image Stacking Software | Which One is Best?](https://astrobackyard.com/astrophotography-image-stacking-software/#:~:text=One%20of%20the%20most%20simple,and%20gradually%20reduce%20the%20opacity)). But Photoshop is great for stacking star trails (using Lighten blend mode), or if you have just a handful of images and want to do it by hand for learning purposes. Still, most of the time, trust DSS/Sequator/Siril for alignment precision. Each of these tools has plenty of tutorials online (AstroBackyard, for instance, has guides on DSS and Sequator ([DeepSkyStacker for Astrophotography | Beginner-Friendly Tutorial](https://astrobackyard.com/deep-sky-stacker-settings/#:~:text=DeepSkyStacker%20for%20Astrophotography%20%7C%20Beginner,the%20basic%20settings%20I%20use)) ([Astrophotography Image Stacking Software | Which One is Best?](https://astrobackyard.com/astrophotography-image-stacking-software/#:~:text=Sequator%20is%20easy%20to%20use,Milky%20Way%20Photography%20and%20Nightscapes))). They are also largely free, so you can try and see which you prefer. **In summary, use DSS or Siril for deep-sky stacks, Sequator or SLS for Milky Way landscapes, and consider advanced software like PixInsight as you progress.** The goal is to produce a single stacked image with much improved signal-to-noise, ready for creative editing. *(Remember to incorporate your calibration frames during stacking.* As a note: **flat frames** correct vignetting/dust, **dark frames** remove sensor dark noise and hot pixels, **bias frames** remove readout bias pattern. Including these will yield a cleaner, more uniform result ([Astrophotography Image Stacking Software | Which One is Best?](https://astrobackyard.com/astrophotography-image-stacking-software/#:~:text=Please%20note%20that%20this%20is,quality%20of%20the%20master%20image)) ([Astrophotography Image Stacking Software | Which One is Best?](https://astrobackyard.com/astrophotography-image-stacking-software/#:~:text=include%20the%20advanced%20calibration%20side,quality%20of%20the%20master%20image)). It’s not mandatory for a basic Milky Way, but for multi-minute deep-sky images, it’s highly recommended.) After stacking, you’ll typically get a 16-bit TIFF or FITS file. Often, this file will look **very dark** and “flat” (low contrast). This is normal; the faint signals are buried and need stretching. ### Editing and Enhancing the Final Image Now comes the fun and artistic part: bringing out the beauty in your stacked astrophoto. The editing workflow can be done in software like **Adobe Photoshop**, **Lightroom**, **GIMP** (free), or specialized tools like **PixInsight**. Many find Photoshop combined with Lightroom to be effective for milky way shots and basic deep-sky, while PixInsight or others are used for more advanced deep-sky processing. Here are key techniques and steps: - **Initial Stretch (Levels/Curves):** The stacked image usually needs a significant brightness boost to reveal faint stars and nebulae. The first step is often to use **Levels** in Photoshop (or the Histogram sliders in Lightroom, or Siril’s stretching tool) ([Astrophotography Image Processing in Photoshop | Easy to Follow (Deep Sky)](https://astrobackyard.com/tutorials/astrophotography-tutorial-1/#:~:text=Step%203%3A%20Levels%20Adjustment)). Bring the **black point** up (move the left slider rightwards towards the edge of the histogram data) – this will darken the background sky to true black and increase contrast ([Astrophotography Image Processing in Photoshop | Easy to Follow (Deep Sky)](https://astrobackyard.com/tutorials/astrophotography-tutorial-1/#:~:text=This%20where%20we%C2%A0start%20to%20separate,levels%20adjustment%20tool%20under%20Image)). Be careful not to clip too much; stop just when the background becomes dark but not losing faint detail. Then adjust the **midtones** (gamma) slider to brighten the mid-level signals (this brings out nebula or milky way). You might do this in several small iterations rather than one big stretch, to avoid blowing anything out. After levels, move to **Curves**, where you can fine-tune contrast: for example, create a slight "S-curve" – lift the highlights (upper part of curve) and deepen the shadows (lower part) to make the Milky Way or nebula “pop” against the dark sky. Curves allow selective brightening of faint structures while keeping background dark. This process is often called “stretching” because it stretches the histogram of the image to use the full dynamic range. In astrophotography, it’s common to do multiple rounds of stretching, adjusting and then fine-tuning black level again. *Using levels and curves, you separate the faint nebulosity from the sea of background and stars ([Astrophotography Image Processing in Photoshop | Easy to Follow (Deep Sky)](https://astrobackyard.com/tutorials/astrophotography-tutorial-1/#:~:text=Step%203%3A%20Levels%20Adjustment)).* Many astro tutorials demonstrate iterative stretching until the object is clearly visible. - **Gradient Removal:** Especially for images taken in less-than-perfect skies (like Redmond or anywhere with some light pollution or moonlight), your stacked image may have a gradient – a brighter background on one side or a general color cast. Removing gradients is crucial to get an even sky. Tools: In Photoshop, the **Gradient Xterminator** plugin is excellent (it samples background and subtracts gradients). In PixInsight/Siril, processes like ABE/DBE (Automatic/Dynamic Background Extraction) do a similar job by modeling the background. You can also manually remove gradients by adding a layer filled with the gradient (by sampling background at various points) and subtracting it. Regardless of method, do this early, right after initial stretch, so you’re working with a neutral background going forward ([Astrophotography Image Processing in Photoshop | Easy to Follow (Deep Sky)](https://astrobackyard.com/tutorials/astrophotography-tutorial-1/#:~:text=Those%20of%20us%20who%20shoot,role%20in%20correcting%20the%20data)). *For city sky images, gradient removal can make a dramatic difference, revealing the Milky Way or nebula against a uniform dark background rather than a bright hazy one.* In Lightroom, you might use the gradient filter tool adjusting exposure/color across the frame. The goal is a flat background. - **Color Balance and Calibration:** Once the background is neutral grey/black, adjust color balance so that the sky isn’t tinted and the stars have correct colors. In Photoshop, you can do this in Levels by looking at each RGB channel. For example, if the histogram of the red channel is offset from the blue/green for the background, you can bring the black point of the red channel in to match, making the sky less red ([Astrophotography Image Processing in Photoshop | Easy to Follow (Deep Sky)](https://astrobackyard.com/tutorials/astrophotography-tutorial-1/#:~:text=By%20adjusting%20the%20individual%20channels,overly%20present%20in%20your%20image)). The idea is to achieve a neutral background (R=G=B in the dark areas). In astrophotos, often the background might lean orange (from light pollution) or green (from airglow or sensor bias). You can fix that with selective color tweaks or by using the white balance tool on a patch of sky (in Lightroom). *A properly white-balanced image will show natural star colors:* some stars appear blue, some yellow, etc., and nebula colors (reds from H-alpha, blues from reflection nebulae) will be correct. Tools like PixInsight have PCC (photometric color calibration) which uses known star colors to calibrate. For Milky Way shots, you might do this by eye until the overall scene looks pleasing and “realistic.” - **Boosting Saturation and Color:** Night sky images often benefit from increased color saturation once the noise is under control. The Milky Way’s dust lanes and star clouds will have subtle browns and blues that can be enhanced. Nebulae like Orion or Lagoon nebula have vibrant colors that become visible when saturation is raised. Use **Vibrance/Saturation** sliders (Lightroom) or **Selective Color** or **Hue/Saturation** layers (Photoshop). Be cautious not to oversaturate the background sky or noise. One trick is to **mask out** the background and only saturate the Milky Way or nebula areas. You can also target specific colors – e.g., increase saturation of reds to bring out emission nebulae. Astrophotos can often handle a lot of saturation because our starting images are so desaturated due to faintness. - **Contrast and Detail Enhancement:** To make details stand out, consider localized contrast enhancement. One common technique in Photoshop is **“Local Contrast Enhancement”** via an unsharp mask on a large radius or using the *Clarity* slider in Lightroom (which is essentially midtone contrast). Another method: duplicate the image layer, apply a **High-Pass filter** with a large radius (like 10-20 px for star fields) and set that layer to Overlay or Soft Light blending – this can sharpen and intensify the visibility of structures like dust lanes. There are also astro-specific actions (like the Astronomy Tools action set ([Astrophotography Image Processing in Photoshop | Easy to Follow (Deep Sky)](https://astrobackyard.com/tutorials/astrophotography-tutorial-1/#:~:text=I%20use%20some%20additional%20plugins,I%20run%20these%20actions%20below))) which include contrast enhancement and sharpening routines tuned for stars and nebulae. Use these carefully to avoid artifacts. For example, bringing out the Milky Way’s structure might involve an curves adjustment applied only to the Milky Way band (with a mask) to brighten it relative to the rest. - **Star Management (Reduction):** In many deep-sky images, stars can dominate the frame and distract from nebulae behind them. A common processing step is **star reduction** – making stars smaller or less intense. This can be done with Photoshop actions (e.g., “Make Stars Smaller” in the Astronomy Tools set) or manually by selecting stars and using Minimum filter. PixInsight has Starnet++ which can even remove stars entirely to process nebula separately. For a Milky Way wide-field, you might not need star reduction, but for something like Andromeda galaxy or Orion nebula, dimming the stars a bit helps the main subject stand out. *The AstroBackyard tutorial references a “star minimizer” technique ([Astrophotography Image Processing in Photoshop | Easy to Follow (Deep Sky)](https://astrobackyard.com/tutorials/astrophotography-tutorial-1/#:~:text=I%20have%20highlighted%20the%20workaround,removal%20without%20using%20Gradient%20Xterminator)).* Essentially, slightly shrinking stars and then touching up their color can yield an image where the nebulous details are clearer. - **Noise Reduction (Post-stacking):** Even after stacking, when you stretch the image aggressively, some noise will appear in the faint areas (especially if you had fewer frames). Applying a targeted **noise reduction** at the end of processing is wise. Tools: Photoshop’s “Reduce Noise” filter or better yet third-party tools like **Topaz DeNoise AI** or **Nik Dfine** can do an excellent job on astro images by smoothing grain while preserving stars. In PixInsight, processes like TGVDenoise or MLT (Multiscale Linear Transform) are used. The key is to apply noise reduction to the **background and faint areas** but **not to the stars or sharp features** (or else they get blurred). This is often done by creating a mask that protects stars and only lets the dark areas be heavily denoised. In Lightroom, the Noise Reduction slider (luminance NR) can be used globally, but careful not to wipe out star clarity. It’s often best to do NR in Photoshop where you can mask. A neat trick is to do a slight noise reduction early in the editing (after initial stretch) to tame noise, and then a final fine NR at the end if needed. - **Final Touches:** Once the main adjustments are done, step back and evaluate. You can adjust the overall **exposure/brightness** if needed, tweak the **white balance** for aesthetic (slightly cooler or warmer tone as you prefer), and ensure the black point is correct (true space is black, but don’t clamp so hard that faint extensions of nebulosity are lost). Check for any residual color cast in the shadows (maybe use a curves on each channel if needed). Often a slight **increase in vibrance** at the end brings it to life. If it’s a landscape astrophoto, you might bring back a separate foreground exposure and blend it in now (for example, if you shot the foreground at twilight or with a lower ISO to reduce noise, you’d composite that with the sky). Compositing should be done carefully with feathered masks to look natural. Also, you may want to **crop** the image to improve composition or remove edges that were noisy (stacking sometimes leaves edges that are less exposed due to drift). - **Software for Editing:** As mentioned, **Adobe Lightroom** can handle a lot of global edits (and some local via gradient or brush) and is non-destructive. Many milky way photographers do 90% of edits in Lightroom. For deep-sky images, Photoshop or PixInsight is more powerful for fine control. GIMP can do many of the Photoshop steps if you prefer open source, though it lacks some advanced 16-bit capabilities of Photoshop (improving in recent versions). Another specialized editor is **StarTools** (not free) which simplifies astro processing with sequential steps. If you prefer an all-in-one, PixInsight is industry standard (but steep learning curve). - **Save Versions:** It’s good practice to save a copy of your image at various stages (linear, stretched, etc.) and especially the final full-res TIF. From there, export a JPEG for sharing (make sure to convert from whatever color profile to sRGB for web). Keep the high-bit depth file for future re-edits. The post-processing stage is where your personal style comes in – some people push saturation for a vivid “Hubble palette” look, others keep things more natural. Some like the Milky Way to have a neutral white look, others bring out the golden and blue hues. There is no single “right” way, but the techniques above (stretching, color balancing, noise reduction, etc.) are the foundation to get a clean, balanced image. With practice, you’ll develop an efficient workflow. Many astrophotographers spend hours tweaking an image to perfection – don’t be afraid to iterate. Also, consider using **reference images** (like NASA or others’ photos of the same target under dark skies) to guide your color edits – for example, knowing that the North America Nebula is reddish helps you adjust your colors correctly if your image looks too green. Lastly, be mindful of **over-processing**: common giveaways are overly black clipped sky, neon-color stars, or ringing artifacts around stars from excessive sharpening. Aim for a pleasing result that still reflects reality (unless you intentionally are doing an artistic interpretation). When you print or view on a different screen, check that it still looks good (calibrated monitor helps as astro images often are heavy in blues and reds which some screens handle differently). To summarize, the post-processing workflow is: **Stack -> Stretch -> Remove Gradients -> Adjust Color/Contrast -> Enhance details -> Reduce noise -> Final tune.** Using the recommended software (DSS/Sequator for stacking ([Astrophotography Image Stacking Software | Which One is Best?](https://astrobackyard.com/astrophotography-image-stacking-software/#:~:text=There%20are%20several%20great%20software,at%20a%20few%20of%20them)), Photoshop/Lightroom for editing), you’ll be able to produce a final image that truly showcases the celestial beauty you captured. ## 5. Additional Tracking Mount Recommendations (Ease of Use & Budget Options) While the SkyGuider Pro and Star Adventurer 2i are excellent, it’s worth knowing other **tracking mount options** in case you have specific needs like ultra-portability, budget constraints, or enhanced features. Below is a list of alternative star trackers and small mounts, along with their key traits. These options focus on **ease of use, portability, and price range**. Many of them have app-based control or simplified alignment, which might appeal to beginners: - **Move Shoot Move (MSM) Star Tracker:** This is a very compact and lightweight tracker popular for travelers and quick wide-field setups. It’s essentially a small motorized rotator. The MSM is known for its **simplicity** – instead of a polar scope, many use a green **laser pointer** attachment to align with Polaris (quick and easy). It’s best for wide-angle lenses (recommendation is typically up to ~50mm or 85mm lens) because of its limited payload (around 3 kg max, but really it’s for DSLR + small lens) and tracking accuracy. It doesn’t have a built-in wedge; you attach it to a ballhead on a tripod. For ease, it’s one of the fastest to set up: just point laser at Polaris, start tracking. It has a phone app for calculating polar alignment but no connectivity – just a simple dial for sidereal, lunar, etc. **Weight** is only about 1.5 lbs. **Battery** is internal and rechargeable. **Cost:** around \$200-300 depending on kit (the laser pointer and wedge cost extra). *Great for wide-field Milky Way shots due to its portability and user-friendly alignment* – you can literally carry it in your pocket. **Pros:** Ultra-portable, quick setup, affordable. **Cons:** Not suitable for heavier cameras or long lenses, shorter max exposure time before trailing appears. It’s often recommended if your primary interest is landscape Milky Way photography and you want something you can bring on a hike easily. (Newer versions like the MSM “Nomad” have incremental improvements, but concept is same.) ([ Peter Zelinka | Which Star Tracker Should I Get? ](https://www.peterzelinka.com/blog/2018/8/which-star-tracker-should-i-get#:~:text=If%20you%20want%20to%20use,the%20weight%20of%20those%20lenses)) - **Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer Mini (SAM):** Essentially the little brother of the Star Adventurer 2i. The **Star Adventurer Mini** is a smaller, lighter tracker (about 1.5 lb head) with a 6.6 lb payload capacity. It also features **built-in Wi-Fi** and is controlled via the same **Sky-Watcher app (Star Adventurer Console)** as the 2i ([Best star tracker camera mounts for astrophotography in 2025 | Digital Camera World](https://www.digitalcameraworld.com/buying-guides/best-star-tracker#:~:text=1.%20Sky)). This means it inherits the app’s ease of use: you can polar align with help of your phone and program timelapses. The SAM is designed for camera lenses (55mm focal length is the spec for no trailing in one minute, but in practice it can do 100-200mm with shorter exposures and good alignment ([Best star tracker camera mounts for astrophotography in 2025 | Digital Camera World](https://www.digitalcameraworld.com/buying-guides/best-star-tracker#:~:text=The%20Sky,lenses%2C%20our%20reviewer%20tried%20it))). It runs on two AAs or USB power, like its big sibling ([Best star tracker camera mounts for astrophotography in 2025 | Digital Camera World](https://www.digitalcameraworld.com/buying-guides/best-star-tracker#:~:text=The%20Sky,using%20the%20micro%20USB%20port)). **Pros:** Very portable, app-controlled (which makes it one of the “smartest” small trackers) ([Best star tracker camera mounts for astrophotography in 2025 | Digital Camera World](https://www.digitalcameraworld.com/buying-guides/best-star-tracker#:~:text=The%20Sky,lenses%2C%20our%20reviewer%20tried%20it)), supports timelapse and astrophotography, includes a tiny polar scope (though not as high-end). **Cons:** Lower weight capacity and slightly less robust – it’s great for DSLR + kit lens, but pushing a heavy full-frame with a 200mm lens might be at its limits. It also requires the phone for advanced functions (no physical dials for different speeds, except via app). Price is around \$300 for the kit (including wedge and maybe a small counterweight). If you like the idea of the Star Adventurer 2i but want something cheaper and lighter for shorter lenses, the SAM is a top pick. *It’s been listed among the best star trackers for hiking/backpacking because of its size and smartphone-assisted alignment* ([Star Tracker buying advice : r/AskAstrophotography - Reddit](https://www.reddit.com/r/AskAstrophotography/comments/1c07uu5/star_tracker_buying_advice/#:~:text=Star%20Tracker%20buying%20advice%20%3A,upvotes%20%C2%B7%2014%20comments)). - **iOptron SkyTracker Pro:** This is iOptron’s smaller tracker (preceded the SkyGuider Pro). The **SkyTracker Pro** is a compact unit that also has an internal rechargeable battery and a small polar scope. Payload is roughly 6.6 lbs (3 kg) like other mini trackers ([ Peter Zelinka | Which Star Tracker Should I Get? ](https://www.peterzelinka.com/blog/2018/8/which-star-tracker-should-i-get#:~:text=If%20you%20want%20to%20use,the%20weight%20of%20those%20lenses)). It comes with a modest alt-az base and an optional tiny counterweight kit (though many just use it for wide angles without counterweight). It doesn’t have Wi-Fi or app; it’s a simple design with a switch for sidereal, 1/2 sidereal, lunar, solar rates. It’s quite **easy to use**: just polar align via its scope and turn it on. The polar scope has an illuminated reticle (the older version had a static reticle; newer have polaris position via year dial). **Pros:** Simple, reliable, built-in battery, very small (fits in a camera bag). **Cons:** No app or advanced controls, the included polar scope is usable but not as refined as SkyGuider’s, the alt-az base is a bit less sturdy than SkyGuider’s upgraded one. However, for **wide-field astrophotography**, it does the job well – any lens 100mm or less is easily handled. Price is about \$300. In Capture-the-Atlas’ 2025 ranking, trackers like the MSM Nomad and SkyTracker Pro are highlighted among top picks ([Best Star Trackers for Astrophotography in 2025 - Capture the Atlas](https://capturetheatlas.com/best-star-trackers/#:~:text=Atlas%20capturetheatlas,iOptron%20SkyTracker%20Pro)), showing it’s still considered one of the best in portability. If you don’t need the payload of SkyGuider, the SkyTracker saves money and weight. - **Vixen Polarie:** Vixen Optics (Japan) was one of the first to popularize portable trackers with the **Polarie**. It’s a sleek, flat device designed to mount on a tripod and hold a camera up to about 6.5 lbs. The Polarie has a simple polar sight (no built-in telescope by default, though you can attach one). It’s extremely easy: you align roughly through a hole with Polaris centered, set the tracking mode, and go. It’s very travel-friendly. **Pros:** Good build quality, reputable brand, simplicity. **Cons:** It’s an older design (no wifi/app), and for better alignment you’d need to buy the optional polar scope (which is quite expensive). The Polarie is also relatively expensive for what it offers – around \$400 just for the tracker (without polar scope or tripod). There’s a newer **Polarie U** released by Vixen that has increased capacity and some modern features, but that comes at a higher price (over \$500). The Polarie is known to be **user-friendly** in that it doesn’t overwhelm with features – just one knob for on/off and speed. If you prefer something from a well-established telescope brand and don’t mind the cost, it’s an option. But these days, other trackers often give more for less. - **Benro Polaris (Smart Tripod Head):** This is a more **advanced, high-end** option that blurs the line between a tracker and a full GoTo mount. The **Benro Polaris** is essentially a 3-axis robotic head with GoTo capability and **plate-solving** for alignment. It is controlled exclusively via a smartphone app and has features like built-in camera control, automatic polar alignment (it can plate-solve the sky to align itself, meaning you don’t even need to see Polaris) ([Gear Review - Benro Polaris Astro 3-Axis Tripod Head](https://silvanadellacamera.com/gear-review-benro-polaris-astro-3-axis-tripod-head/#:~:text=Head%20silvanadellacamera,is%20behind%20a%20tree)) ([Benro Polaris Review in 2025 – The Most Complete Star Tracker](https://capturetheatlas.com/benro-polaris-review/#:~:text=Benro%20Polaris%20Review%20in%202025,)). It has a database of objects and can slew to them, and even can do panoramas and timelapses because of the 3-axis movement. This mount is geared toward those who want an “all-in-one” solution – it’s like having a mini computer-driven mount. **Pros:** Incredibly **easy to configure via app**; no polar scope needed – the app assists or does alignment ([Gear Review - Benro Polaris Astro 3-Axis Tripod Head](https://silvanadellacamera.com/gear-review-benro-polaris-astro-3-axis-tripod-head/#:~:text=Head%20silvanadellacamera,is%20behind%20a%20tree)), fully automated tracking and goto, high payload for its size (~7-8 lb), multi-functional (nightscapes, timelapse, etc.). **Cons:** **Cost** – it’s around \$1200 (the “Astro” version with 3-axis). Also, as a relatively new product, its app was noted to lack polish in early reviews ([Benro Polaris Astro Edition star-tracker review | Digital Camera World](https://www.digitalcameraworld.com/reviews/benro-polaris-astro-edition-star-tracker-review#:~:text=Benro%20Polaris%20Astro%20Edition%20star,an%20app%20that%20lacks%20polish)). It’s heavier (over 4 lbs) due to motors and electronics, and you need to keep it charged (it has internal battery and can also run via external power). The Polaris is for the tech-savvy photographer who doesn’t mind paying for convenience. If budget is not a concern and ease-of-use (especially not having to do a manual polar alignment) is top priority, this is an attractive albeit expensive choice. It has also the novelty of doing **automated imaging sequences** – you could program it to take a mosaic of the sky, etc. Keep in mind, being new, user experiences are still accumulating, but it is indeed a standout in terms of feature set. - **Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer GTi:** Just as an honorable mention, this is a **new small GoTo mount** (not just a simple tracker) that Sky-Watcher recently released. It’s essentially a mini equatorial mount with full GoTo via SynScan app, in a package not much larger than the Star Adventurer. It has dual-axis motors and can find and track objects automatically. **Pros:** Full GoTo capability means you can more easily locate dim objects (the mount will slew to, say, Andromeda Galaxy once you align it). Still portable (head is ~8 lbs though, heavier than trackers). **Cons:** It’s more complex (two-axis alignment, etc.), more power draw (needs external power or many AAs), and not as “grab-and-go” as a simple tracker. The GTi runs about \$480 for the head only. If your goal is ease of use, a GoTo might actually complicate things at the beginner stage, but for someone who quickly outgrows manual trackers, it’s a logical step. However, given the scope of this guide, the simpler trackers above are the focus. - **Other options:** There are also DIY trackers (like the Barndoor trackers), and other brands like **OMEgon MiniTrack** which is a mechanical wind-up tracker (no battery needed, but only about 60 minutes tracking per wind and limited accuracy). The Omegon MiniTrack LX series is ultra-cheap (~\$150) and appealing for its simplicity (no electronics), but performance is limited to very wide angles and short exposures. **Losmandy StarLapse** and **Fornax LighTrack** are high-end trackers: the Fornax LighTrack II/AT is known for extremely accurate unguided tracking (up to 10 minutes with minimal error) but it’s expensive (~\$1000) and requires external battery. These are for advanced users needing superb performance. **Budget considerations:** - On the low end (~\$150-$300): Omegon MiniTrack (cheapest), Move Shoot Move (~\$250), Star Adventurer Mini (~\$300), iOptron SkyTracker Pro (~\$300). - Mid range (~\$400-$600): Star Adventurer 2i Pro (~\$520 including wedge and counterweight), iOptron SkyGuider Pro (~\$428 for full kit, often on sale for ~$300), Vixen Polarie (~\$400 plus cost of polar scope if needed). - High end (~\$800-$1200): Benro Polaris (~\$1000+ depending on version), Fornax LighTrack (~\$1000, requires separate tripod/head), small GoTo mounts (GTi ~\$480 head-only, but with tripod and accessories can be ~$800). Each price point brings either more capability or more convenience. If **ease of use** is paramount and budget allows, something like the **Benro Polaris** stands out for being app-driven and largely automated ([Benro Polaris Review in 2025 – The Most Complete Star Tracker](https://capturetheatlas.com/benro-polaris-review/#:~:text=Benro%20Polaris%20Review%20in%202025,)). If budget is tight and you just want to start capturing the Milky Way, the **Move Shoot Move** is a fantastic entry – minimal fuss and very portable. For a balanced choice under \$500, the **Star Adventurer 2i** or **SkyGuider Pro** already owned are actually top-notch; alternatives in that range might not surpass them, except in specialized cases (like needing a super light version or a full GoTo). Importantly, all these mounts use the same basic principle of rotating at sidereal rate. So the quality of your results will still depend on careful polar alignment and good camera handling. A simpler tracker might take a bit more effort to align (e.g., using a phone app and a sight tube instead of a fancy polar scope) but can still yield great photos in the wide-field domain ([ Peter Zelinka | Which Star Tracker Should I Get? ](https://www.peterzelinka.com/blog/2018/8/which-star-tracker-should-i-get#:~:text=If%20you%20want%20to%20use,the%20weight%20of%20those%20lenses)). **App-based control features:** We’ve noted which have apps (Star Adventurer Mini/2i, Benro Polaris, Star Adventurer GTi via SynScan). These apps can greatly enhance ease of use by providing alignment help, camera control, or even full GoTo. On the flip side, relying on an app means you’re dependent on your phone and the manufacturer’s software updates. Trackers like MSM and SkyTracker Pro avoid that complexity (less to go wrong, perhaps). It’s a personal preference – some prefer a fully analog experience, others love having everything on the phone screen. To conclude this section, you have a spectrum of tracker options. If you were to ask for a couple of **specific recommendations** beyond the two you have: - For **ultimate portability:** the *Move Shoot Move* (for ultra-light wide-field work) is a winner. - For **a slight step up with modern features:** the *Star Adventurer Mini* gives similar functionality to the 2i in a smaller package and might save a bit of cost. - For **tech-heavy convenience (at a cost):** the *Benro Polaris* offers a glimpse of the future of smart mounts, integrating plate-solving and app control for a near hands-off experience ([Gear Review - Benro Polaris Astro 3-Axis Tripod Head](https://silvanadellacamera.com/gear-review-benro-polaris-astro-3-axis-tripod-head/#:~:text=Head%20silvanadellacamera,is%20behind%20a%20tree)). - If someone wanted to keep budget very low but still track: the *Omegon MiniTrack* mechanical tracker is an option under \$200 (no battery needed, but requires more manual work and best for short focal lengths). All these will help you capture better night sky images than a static tripod, and each has its pros/cons. The good news is that the core skills you learn (polar alignment, balancing, framing, etc.) apply to any mount. So upgrading or switching in the future won’t be difficult – it’s mostly a matter of convenience and capability. ## 6. Preparation for a Moab Trip (Dark-Sky Astrophotography Adventure) Shooting under the dark skies of Moab, Utah is an exciting prospect – the area is home to multiple International Dark Sky Parks and offers striking red rock landscapes to pair with the night sky ([The 5 Best Spots for Stargazing in Arches National Park - Park Chasers](https://www.parkchasers.com/2021/07/the-5-best-spots-for-stargazing-in-arches-national-park/#:~:text=In%202019%2C%20Arches%20National%20Park,that%20reduces%20night%20sky%20quality)). To make the most of your astrophotography trip, you’ll want to plan carefully around moon phases and weather, pick the best locations, and bring the right gear. Here’s a guide to preparing for Moab: **Best Dark-Sky Locations in Moab:** Moab is fortunate to have two certified Dark Sky Parks nearby: **Arches National Park** and **Dead Horse Point State Park**. In 2019, Arches was designated an International Dark Sky Park ([The 5 Best Spots for Stargazing in Arches National Park - Park Chasers](https://www.parkchasers.com/2021/07/the-5-best-spots-for-stargazing-in-arches-national-park/#:~:text=In%202019%2C%20Arches%20National%20Park,that%20reduces%20night%20sky%20quality)), meaning it has taken measures to preserve darkness and offers exceptional night sky quality. Dead Horse Point earned the status in 2016 and is known as one of the most accessible stargazing spots in the area ([Night Sky at Dead Horse Point State Park - Utah State Parks](https://stateparks.utah.gov/parks/dead-horse/night-sky/#:~:text=Parks%20stateparks,stargaze%20in%20the%20Moab%20area)). Within these parks (and surrounding public lands), here are top locations: - **Panorama Point (Arches NP):** A popular stargazing spot in Arches ([The 5 Best Spots for Stargazing in Arches National Park - Park Chasers](https://www.parkchasers.com/2021/07/the-5-best-spots-for-stargazing-in-arches-national-park/#:~:text=%231%20)). It’s a designated viewpoint with a wide 360° view, away from the road (so minimal headlights). There are even ranger-led astronomy programs here sometimes. It has **plenty of parking** and open sky in all directions ([The 5 Best Spots for Stargazing in Arches National Park - Park Chasers](https://www.parkchasers.com/2021/07/the-5-best-spots-for-stargazing-in-arches-national-park/#:~:text=of%20the%20common%20spots%20to,ranger%20programs%20are%20often%20held)), great for Milky Way panoramas or star trails over the horizon. - **Balanced Rock (Arches NP):** One of Arches’ most iconic formations. The Balanced Rock picnic area, especially the larger parking across the road, is noted as a good stargazing spot ([The 5 Best Spots for Stargazing in Arches National Park - Park Chasers](https://www.parkchasers.com/2021/07/the-5-best-spots-for-stargazing-in-arches-national-park/#:~:text=%232%20,Area)). You can compose shots of Balanced Rock with the Milky Way arching above. It’s close to the road, so occasional car lights might flash, but you can mitigate that by shooting later at night when traffic dies down. The key perk is the formation itself provides an interesting foreground. - **The Windows Section (Arches NP):** This includes North Window, South Window, and Turret Arch ([The 5 Best Spots for Stargazing in Arches National Park - Park Chasers](https://www.parkchasers.com/2021/07/the-5-best-spots-for-stargazing-in-arches-national-park/#:~:text=%234%20)). After dark, this area empties out of people (it’s very busy at sunset). You can shoot through the North Window arch looking at stars, or capture the Milky Way aligning over Turret Arch when timing is right. It’s recommended to arrive in daylight to scout positions, because hiking among rocks at night can be tricky. Also, the Windows area is big enough to find a spot away from other photographers if any. - **Garden of Eden Viewpoint (Arches NP):** Near the Windows, this overlook is cited as a less crowded alternative if Windows parking is full ([The 5 Best Spots for Stargazing in Arches National Park - Park Chasers](https://www.parkchasers.com/2021/07/the-5-best-spots-for-stargazing-in-arches-national-park/#:~:text=%235%20,Rock%20Viewpoint)). It offers a broad view and interesting rock spires (like Owl Rock) that you can use in compositions. - **Devil’s Garden Campground (Arches NP):** If you happen to camp there, it’s deep in the park and very dark. From the campground or nearby Amphitheater, you have great skies ([The 5 Best Spots for Stargazing in Arches National Park - Park Chasers](https://www.parkchasers.com/2021/07/the-5-best-spots-for-stargazing-in-arches-national-park/#:~:text=%233%20)). Plus, you could walk to features like Landscape Arch or Partition Arch for unique night shots, though those require a hike even in darkness. - **Delicate Arch (Arches NP):** The famous arch is a spectacular night subject, but it’s a 3-mile hike (one-way) to get there. Many photographers do this at night; just be prepared (headlamp, know the trail). At new moon, the Milky Way can be positioned nicely behind the arch at certain times of year (typically late spring early summer predawn). It’s perilous to navigate the slickrock in total dark, so consider doing this with a partner or when a thin crescent moon is present for light. If willing, it’s a bucket-list shot. - **Dead Horse Point State Park:** This park offers **overlooks of the Colorado River canyon**. The view from Dead Horse Point itself (the main overlook) is huge and majestic. At night, you can set up along the railing and shoot the Milky Way over the canyon. Since it’s a state park and not as busy as Arches, it’s often quieter at night. They often have **astronomy events** as well ([Night Sky at Dead Horse Point State Park - Utah State Parks](https://stateparks.utah.gov/parks/dead-horse/night-sky/#:~:text=Parks%20stateparks,stargaze%20in%20the%20Moab%20area)). Also, the park being high on a mesa means low horizons – good for capturing sky from horizon up. The land forms (like the gooseneck of the river) will be dark silhouettes unless light-painted or during some moonlight. But even just the sky over that landscape is amazing. - **Canyonlands National Park – Island in the Sky district:** Not far from Dead Horse, Island in the Sky has spots like **Mesa Arch** (famous for sunrise, but at night you can attempt Milky Way through the arch – though the arch faces east, the Milky Way core will rise behind it late at night in summer, offering a chance). Also **Green River Overlook** and **Grand View Point** provide vast sky views over the canyonlands. Canyonlands is also an International Dark Sky Park, extremely dark. Fewer people at night than Arches typically. - **Natural Bridges National Monument** (a bit farther from Moab, but one of the first Dark Sky Parks designated). If your trip extends, Natural Bridges has iconic stone bridges you can shoot with stars (Owachomo Bridge is often photographed with MW framed under it). All these locations are among **some of the best star-gazing and astrophotography spots in the world** ([The 5 Best Spots for Stargazing in Arches National Park - Park Chasers](https://www.parkchasers.com/2021/07/the-5-best-spots-for-stargazing-in-arches-national-park/#:~:text=In%202019%2C%20Arches%20National%20Park,that%20reduces%20night%20sky%20quality)). For a first Moab trip, Arches and Dead Horse Point should be top of list due to ease of access and iconic scenery. Plan to be in the park during the day to scout your compositions (know where the arch or rock will be relative to the Milky Way etc., using apps like PhotoPills). **Planning with Moon Phases:** The **moon phase and rise/set times** will dramatically affect your imaging in Moab. Ideally, schedule your astrophotography nights around the **New Moon** – when the moon is absent and skies are darkest ([Tips For Astrophotography | How To Take Better Pictures of The Night Sky | Lensbaby](https://lensbaby.com/blogs/creative-photography/astro-photography?srsltid=AfmBOor5FsfFL1kLe7iU8AOU4qteCy6dKq_kqOdJrjQ0_9X2T4oE9P1p#:~:text=sky%20location%2C%20but%20a%20dark,I%20love%20catching%20a)). Typically, the best time is from about 4 days before new moon to 4 days after new moon (a week-long window) ([All about astrophotography: Planning for a night's session](https://www.diyphotography.net/all-about-astrophotography-planning-for-a-nights-session/#:~:text=All%20about%20astrophotography%3A%20Planning%20for,time%20to%20plan%20a%20trip)). If you cannot be there at new moon, you can still shoot if the moon sets early or rises late. For example, if the moon is in last quarter and doesn’t rise until 1am, you have dark skies in the evening up to that time. Use a moon calendar (plenty of apps or sites) to find when the moon will be below the horizon during night hours. **Avoid full moon nights** for Milky Way – a full moon will wash out almost all stars (though you can do cool moonlit landscape shots, they just won’t show the Milky Way well). In Moab specifically, the Milky Way core is visible roughly March through October. If you go in **summer (June/July)**, the core is visible soon after nightfall (around 10-11pm) and stays up for many hours – prime time. If you go in **spring (say April)**, the core rises in the early morning (like 2-3am), so you’d plan to be out pre-dawn. Plan your sleep schedule accordingly – many astro photographers in Moab will shoot from midnight to 4am, then sleep in the morning. If going in **late summer/Fall (Sept)**, the core sets earlier in the night, so you shoot in the evening. Use apps like **PhotoPills** or **PlanIt!** to plan the alignment of the Milky Way or constellations with specific arches or rock formations. For example, PhotoPills has an AR feature to visualize where the Milky Way will arch in the sky at a given time and location. This helps you schedule *when* to shoot at *which spot*. Perhaps Balanced Rock is best at midnight, then you move to Turret Arch at 2am when the Milky Way aligns there, etc. Also plan for any specific astronomical events – e.g., meteor showers (Perseids in August could be great in Moab, but note that around Aug 12 often has a moon interference some years), or the zodiacal light (visible in spring before dawn, which in dark skies is a neat cone of light on horizon). **Check the Weather:** Moab typically has many clear nights, especially summer (monsoon season in late July/Aug can bring thunderstorms though). Use weather services like **Clear Sky Chart** or **Astrospheric** or **Clear Outside** which forecast cloud cover and transparency. In the high desert, weather can change quickly; even if day is clear, sometimes high clouds drift in at night. Have a flexible plan: if one night looks cloudy, target another night for critical shots. Also note temperature swings – desert nights can get chilly even in summer (it might be 90°F in day and 50°F at night). Check forecasts and bring appropriate clothing (more on that in gear below). **Additional Gear Recommendations for Moab:** - **Sturdy Tripod:** You likely have this, but ensure it’s robust enough for uneven slickrock surfaces and possible wind gusts. Moab can have breezy evenings; a tripod with spiked feet or weight hook (hang your backpack from it) can help stability. - **Headlamp with Red Light:** An absolute must for navigating in darkness without ruining your night vision or bothering others. Red light preserves night adaptation and is park-friendly. Many headlamps have a red LED mode. Keep extra batteries for it. - **Extra Camera Batteries:** In dark sky work, you might do hundreds of shots or long timelapses. The R6 battery should last a decent while, but bring spares. Also consider a USB power bank and the USB-C cable for the R6 if you want to run it via external power (the R6 can charge via USB-C and even operate, though heavy use might slowly drain if shooting and charging simultaneously). In the cold, keep spares in an inner pocket to keep them warm. - **Large Memory Cards:** You’ll generate many GB of data. Have multiple high-capacity cards (and consider bringing a laptop or backup drive to dump images each day – you don’t want to run out of space). Moab’s town has some stores, but specialized memory cards might not be easily available if you need one last minute. - **Dew Heater or Hand Warmers:** Moab’s climate is very dry, so dew is usually not an issue like it is in humid areas. However, on rare occasions in spring or fall, if temperatures drop close to dew point, lenses could fog. A simple solution is to carry a couple of chemical hand warmer packets; if your lens starts fogging, rubber band a hand warmer around the lens barrel as a quick heater. Or use a USB dew heater strap if you have one (connect to a power bank). Generally not needed in Moab’s arid environment, but good to be prepared especially near the river or on cooler nights. - **Appropriate Clothing:** Layers are key. Even in summer, bring a light jacket for late at night. In spring/fall, you might need a fleece or down jacket, hat, and gloves. You’ll be standing around inactive, which can make you feel colder. Wear good footwear (closed-toe shoes or hiking boots) especially if walking on rocks at night (protect from stubbed toes, cactus, etc.). - **Snacks and Water:** Stay hydrated; desert air can dehydrate you quickly, even at night. Bring water and maybe a thermos with a hot drink if it’s cold. Snacks (energy bars, etc.) to keep you going at 3am. There are no services in the parks at night, obviously, so have what you need with you. - **Star Charts/Apps:** Aside from PhotoPills for planning, you might enjoy having a stargazing app (like SkySafari) to identify what you’re seeing in the ultra-dark sky. The number of stars will be overwhelming (in a good way) the first time! It can be fun to spot the Andromeda Galaxy with naked eye, etc. This also helps if you want to target a certain deep-sky object with a telephoto; you can use the app to find it and frame it. - **Lens Selection:** For Moab, **wide, fast lenses** shine for Milky Way landscapes (14mm f/2.8, 20mm f/1.8, 24mm f/1.4, etc.). But also consider a **telephoto** for picking out interesting alignments like moonrise behind an arch, or a close-up of the galactic core over a formation. If you have a star tracker (you do), you can even attempt some deep-sky from Moab – e.g., photographing the Rho Ophiuchi nebula area or Orion Nebula with a 200mm. The dark sky will allow much better results than at home. So bring any lens you might want; the sky will accommodate. Also, a **second tripod or bean bag** can be useful if you want to do a time-lapse on one camera and track with another, or do a static star trail with a spare camera. - **Portable Table or Camp Chair:** You might be out for hours. A lightweight folding camp chair can be a back-saver when waiting for exposures. Also helps during the day if you’re napping at a site waiting for night. A small collapsible table can hold gear so it’s not on the ground (optional). - **Safety and Navigation:** If venturing beyond parking areas, have navigation – a GPS app or downloaded map. It’s easy to get turned around in the dark among rocks. Stick to known trails if possible. Let someone know if you go solo into a trail at night. Many parks allow night access, but check if any require permits for after-hours (Arches currently does timed entry in summer days but at night you can enter freely after hours). Keep your park entry receipt or annual pass handy if rangers ask after hours. - **Photography Accessories:** Remote shutter (if not using intervalometer), lens cleaning kit (dusty environment; you may need to blow off dust or wipe lens). A bright flashlight as well (for when you’re done and need full light, or if you choose to light paint foregrounds – be mindful, in national parks light painting is often discouraged by guidelines to preserve natural night experience. If you do it, use low intensity and brief). - **Plan for Sleep:** This is gear for you, not camera – consider bringing camping gear if you plan to stay overnight in the parks (some parks allow overnight photography without camping if you have entry, but you can’t just sleep in your car in all spots – know the rules). If you can, napping in afternoon or having a base at a campsite or hotel to retreat to in early AM is good. The Moab area has some 24-hour convenience stores/gas where you can get coffee at odd hours if needed. **Plan Your Shoot:** - Arrive on location early (during golden hour or sunset) to set up and enjoy the transition to dark. It’s magical to watch the stars come out in a place like Dead Horse Point at dusk. Use that time to frame your composition while some light remains – it’s easier to focus and compose. Then when darkness falls, you’re ready. - If doing multiple locations in one night, schedule them by priority and ease. For instance, maybe start at Dead Horse Point at nightfall, then around 1am drive to Arches Windows for the Milky Way core later. Be aware of travel times; from Dead Horse to Arches is ~45min drive. - Use the Moon to your advantage if it’s around: A setting crescent moon can softly illuminate the landscape (making the red rocks glow faintly) while still allowing plenty of stars to show. Many photographers actually prefer a small amount of moonlight on the foreground so it’s not entirely silhouette. If a ~15-20% moon is going to set at, say, midnight, plan to shoot some foreground-including shots before midnight to get that moonlit terrain with the Milky Way above. After the moon sets, you’ll have pure dark for more sky-centric shots ([Tips For Astrophotography | How To Take Better Pictures of The Night Sky | Lensbaby](https://lensbaby.com/blogs/creative-photography/astro-photography?srsltid=AfmBOor5FsfFL1kLe7iU8AOU4qteCy6dKq_kqOdJrjQ0_9X2T4oE9P1p#:~:text=sky%20location%2C%20but%20a%20dark,I%20love%20catching%20a)). - **Be Considerate:** There may be other astrophotographers or stargazers in these popular spots. Practice good etiquette: use red lights, turn off car headlights quickly (arrive and park such that you don’t blast others), keep noise low (it’s tranquil at night). Also, wild animals are around (mostly harmless small ones, but maybe coyotes or foxes) – keep food sealed. - **Astronomical Events:** Check if your trip coincides with a meteor shower peak or the Milky Way arch being vertical vs diagonal, etc. Moab’s dark skies mean you could capture bright meteors or maybe the zodiacal light (a triangular glow along the ecliptic just after dusk in fall or before dawn in spring). To put it all together: Suppose you plan a session at Dead Horse Point on a new moon June night. You’d check that weather is clear and maybe the Milky Way core will rise by 11pm. You arrive at 9:30pm, set up while twilight fades, polar align as stars appear (Polaris will be easily seen). Maybe between 10-11pm you shoot some long exposures of the foreground with twilight or residual light. By 11:30pm the Milky Way is visible; you then execute your imaging plan – maybe a tracked panorama of the Milky Way, or a time-lapse, etc. If staying late, bring that thermos of coffee! Wrap up by when you start feeling tired or dawn is approaching. Ensure you have a safe drive back (tiredness can hit hard after hours of night shooting, so don’t push it – better to rest at the site or have a second person). A Moab trip can be incredibly rewarding. The combination of **truly dark skies and alien-looking rock formations** yields photographs that are dramatic and unique. With your Canon R6, the star tracker, and the preparation in this guide, you’ll be well-equipped to capture the Milky Way soaring over red rock arches, star trails circling above canyon vistas, and detailed images of deep-sky objects that were impossible to get back home. Enjoy the experience – take time to just stargaze as well, it’s awe-inspiring to see the Milky Way with the naked eye in a place like Moab. And as always, keep safety in mind, respect the natural environment, and adhere to any park rules regarding nighttime use. --- **Conclusion:** This guide has covered the essentials of starting out in astrophotography with your Canon R6 and tracking mounts. We compared two leading star trackers (SkyGuider Pro vs Star Adventurer 2i) highlighting their features and ease of use. We walked through practice exercises in a light-polluted area (Redmond) to hone your skills in capturing and stacking images of the Milky Way and Orion Nebula, including recommended settings and techniques to deal with urban skyglow. We discussed how to get the most out of the Canon R6 – leveraging its low-noise sensor, using proper settings (RAW, manual, no NR, etc.), and addressing limitations like amp glow via stacking and dark frames. A step-by-step post-processing workflow was provided, from stacking your images in software (DSS, Sequator, etc.) to using levels, curves, and color adjustments to produce a final image with enhanced detail, color, and contrast. We also listed additional star tracker options if you seek something even more portable or have a different budget, noting which ones have app integration or other unique conveniences. Finally, we outlined preparations for a dark-sky trip to Moab, UT – recommending the best spots (Arches NP, Dead Horse Point SP, etc.), emphasizing planning around moon phases and weather ([Tips For Astrophotography | How To Take Better Pictures of The Night Sky | Lensbaby](https://lensbaby.com/blogs/creative-photography/astro-photography?srsltid=AfmBOor5FsfFL1kLe7iU8AOU4qteCy6dKq_kqOdJrjQ0_9X2T4oE9P1p#:~:text=sky%20location%2C%20but%20a%20dark,I%20love%20catching%20a)), and suggesting gear and strategies to ensure a successful and enjoyable night under Moab’s world-class night skies. With this knowledge, you should be well on your way to creating stunning astrophotographs. Clear skies and happy shooting! **Sources:** 1. Peter Zelinka – *Choosing a Star Tracker*: heavy-duty trackers vs. lightweight ([ Peter Zelinka | Which Star Tracker Should I Get? ](https://www.peterzelinka.com/blog/2018/8/which-star-tracker-should-i-get#:~:text=match%20at%20L66%20The%20iOptron,frame%20cameras)) ([ Peter Zelinka | Which Star Tracker Should I Get? ](https://www.peterzelinka.com/blog/2018/8/which-star-tracker-should-i-get#:~:text=If%20you%20want%20to%20use,the%20weight%20of%20those%20lenses)) 2. Sky-Watcher – *Star Adventurer 2i Pro Pack* (product features) ([Star Adventurer 2i Pro Pack — Sky-Watcher USA](https://www.skywatcherusa.com/products/star-adventurer-pro-pack#:~:text=%2A%20Star%20Adventurer%202i%20multi,with%20dec%20bracket)) ([Star Adventurer 2i Pro Pack — Sky-Watcher USA](https://www.skywatcherusa.com/products/star-adventurer-pro-pack#:~:text=photography,lapse%20videos%20with%20your%20DSLR)) 3. iOptron – *SkyGuider Pro Full Package* (product description) ([SkyGuider^TM Pro Camera Mount Full Package](https://www.ioptron.com/product-p/3550.htm#:~:text=The%20redesigned%20SkyGuiderr,and%20control%20the%20camera%20trigger)) ([SkyGuider^TM Pro Camera Mount Full Package](https://www.ioptron.com/product-p/3550.htm#:~:text=The%20SkyGuider,without%20disrupting%20the%20cameras%20position)) 4. Alan Dyer – *Testing the Canon R6 for Astrophotography* (sensor performance) ([Testing the Canon R6 for Astrophotography – The Amazing Sky](https://amazingsky.net/2021/09/23/testing-the-canon-r6-for-astrophotography/#:~:text=The%20Canon%20R6%20has%20proven,Nikon%20and%20Sony%20mirrorless%20cameras)) ([Testing the Canon R6 for Astrophotography – The Amazing Sky](https://amazingsky.net/2021/09/23/testing-the-canon-r6-for-astrophotography/#:~:text=Image%20Quality%20Flaw)) 5. Canon Australia – *Phil Hart’s Astro Tips* (R6 settings: RAW, WB Daylight, NR off, etc.) ([ Astrophotography Tips from Phil Hart | Canon Australia ](https://www.canon.com.au/get-inspired/astrophotography-tips-phil-hart#:~:text=Recommended%20Camera%20Settings%20for%20Night,Sky%20Photography)) 6. AstroBackyard – *Image Stacking Software* (Sequator for Milky Way, DSS for deep-sky) ([Astrophotography Image Stacking Software | Which One is Best?](https://astrobackyard.com/astrophotography-image-stacking-software/#:~:text=Sequator%20is%20easy%20to%20use,Milky%20Way%20Photography%20and%20Nightscapes)) ([Astrophotography Image Stacking Software | Which One is Best?](https://astrobackyard.com/astrophotography-image-stacking-software/#:~:text=DeepSkyStacker%20is%20my%20overall%20favorite,stacking%20tool%20for%20astrophotography)) 7. AstroBackyard – *Processing Tutorial* (stacking improves SNR, city sky requires hours of data) ([Astrophotography Image Processing in Photoshop | Easy to Follow (Deep Sky)](https://astrobackyard.com/tutorials/astrophotography-tutorial-1/#:~:text=The%20process%20involves%20stacking%20multiple,noise%20ratio%20will%20be)) 8. Lensbaby – *How to Capture Astrophotography* (planning around new moon and weather) ([Tips For Astrophotography | How To Take Better Pictures of The Night Sky | Lensbaby](https://lensbaby.com/blogs/creative-photography/astro-photography?srsltid=AfmBOor5FsfFL1kLe7iU8AOU4qteCy6dKq_kqOdJrjQ0_9X2T4oE9P1p#:~:text=sky%20location%2C%20but%20a%20dark,I%20love%20catching%20a)) ([Tips For Astrophotography | How To Take Better Pictures of The Night Sky | Lensbaby](https://lensbaby.com/blogs/creative-photography/astro-photography?srsltid=AfmBOor5FsfFL1kLe7iU8AOU4qteCy6dKq_kqOdJrjQ0_9X2T4oE9P1p#:~:text=,batteries%2C%20snack%2C%20hand%20warmers%2C%20etc)) 9. Park Chasers – *Best Stargazing in Arches NP* (Dark Sky Park status and locations) ([The 5 Best Spots for Stargazing in Arches National Park - Park Chasers](https://www.parkchasers.com/2021/07/the-5-best-spots-for-stargazing-in-arches-national-park/#:~:text=In%202019%2C%20Arches%20National%20Park,that%20reduces%20night%20sky%20quality)) ([The 5 Best Spots for Stargazing in Arches National Park - Park Chasers](https://www.parkchasers.com/2021/07/the-5-best-spots-for-stargazing-in-arches-national-park/#:~:text=%231%20)) 10. Utah State Parks – *Dead Horse Point Dark Sky* (dark sky park, active stargazing)